Bi-Tron engine oil additive

[sundee]

hey fellas just thought it was about time u guys got a little heads up on this product ive been using. its drag, track tested and proven itself in every other way and performes better then the rest..

check out the link.. you tube the name for give testemonies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tf3moijxSvk&feature=PlayList&p=C90C9090D04FE280&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=13

and i can vouch for everything that they say! i run it in both my cars and im about to get it for my box and diff..

enjoy

and yeah discuss

[pen15]

looks good m8 i like this where can it be purchased from why not use royal additive from royal purple i use royal purple in my cars and they run an absolute treat but this shit you have posted up looks great with dirt and water wow that's good shit

[sundee]

this stuff is insane.. there is a vid somewhere of them dropping the sump off a landcruiser or something and driving it for an hour, they pull the motor down and its good as new... im gonna try and find it..

[NIZLAH]

amazing..... pretty astonishing, where do you get Bi-tron...?

[Cerby86]

does it make your car go both ways???

[sundee]

does it make your car go both ways???
i think your trying to be funny but im just confused .

my dad orders it from somewhere.. we just go halves in a box. ill ask tomorrow.

[Jonny Rochester]

As with any engine oil addative, as a general rule, the advertising is taking you for a ride, or you don't need it anyway.

You can have your opinion, but it will mean nothing to me at all unless you at least give some numbers on the performace advantage and make it half scientific.

And bear in mind a Commodore drove across Australia with no oil in it for a Wynns campain... back in the 80s.

Slick50 were huge in the 90s, running motors with no oil on them for TV adverticments etc... They did get sued for something as well, in regard to false advertising.

[Jonny Rochester]

Anyone tried STP from the 60s and 70s?

[Nikkojoe]

I have a pdf of an article from street commodores testing oils exactly like this. It was done a few years ago but still relavent.

Valvoline Durablend is the most affordable with minimum damage.

[Jonny Rochester]

Just looking at the video now. A very similar machine (maybe even the same brand) was demonstrated to me in person, but it was used to sell Wynns Friction Proofing, by the Wynns rep. So should I buy Wynns or Bi-Tron? Same test result.

Selling engine oil is like selling kitchen knifes. It can be a lifelong career for some, and there are many tricks you don't see right away.

I don't know how they do it, but knowing some basics may help us start to see.

What is a common lubricant used on industrial lathes and milling machines to cut metal? It is often oil mixed with water. Why are we so upset to see water in the oil? Ever seen water damage in a motor? If anything, it cleans it. Failure is more likely from overheating do to water loss in the cooling, not water in the oil. Water in the oil will provide better cooling than straight oil. (Correct me if you like not 100% sure).

Soft organic dirt is going to do very little to moving steel parts. Dirt is nothing compared to metal particals. I have driven dirt roads, sideways, with no air filters. Oil was black. Motor loved it, no damage.

[Jonny Rochester]

I remember a Slick50 infomercial on American TV in 1994 (before they got sued, they had to admit Teflon had no known benifts in oil.) They had a complete V8 motor running on a stand, with Slick50 added. They drained the oil out of it while it was running, then removed the sump. The audience was shocked. Then just to add something else, they got a firetruck to come with a hose and blast the bare crank and rods still spinning in the motor. But thinking about it now, I bet the water was introduced at the perfect time. All tested and timed to perfection by engineers, especially if the water was aimed at the oil pickup.

[Cerby86]

i think your trying to be funny but im just confused .

my dad orders it from somewhere.. we just go halves in a box. ill ask tomorrow.

OMG THAT WAS GOLD!!!! BI...... BI SEXUAL......GOES BOTH WAYS
do i need to spell it out anymore??

[sundee]

here is a personal testemony... johnny i dont mean to be rude but it seems your a very big skeptic...look, this guy looks like he knows what he is talking about.. he mentions gains in HP, torque and alot negative HP.. drivetrain drag.

check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZnrvzZBTPg

[Jase86]

here is a personal testemony... johnny i dont mean to be rude but it seems your a very big skeptic...look, this guy looks like he knows what he is talking about.. he mentions gains in HP, torque and alot negative HP.. drivetrain drag.

check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZnrvzZBTPg

Its easy to look like you know what your talking about - especially if your receiving financial motivation!

Here is some info I found from a document on the net:



Beware miracle additives

—and especially chlorinated paraffins

John Rowland, Derby

[John is an industrial chemist with vast experience in the field of lubricants.
He wrote this item more than a year ago, but somehow it buried itself
beneath a layer of e-mails and went unnoticed. Its time has now come.]

Dave Pittuck came across the publicity for a lubricant additive named Bitron, for which some wonderful claims were being made, and he asked me whether it was likely to of benefit to Morgan owners. I told him not to touch it with a bargepole. At about the same time I was contacted by a French acquaintance who had put the additive Mecacyl in the gearbox of his Citroen tintop and subsequently discovered a great deal of internal corrosion.
Both these products are based on chemicals known as chlorinated paraffins. We oil industry types knew all about chlorinated paraffins seventy years ago, and so did the motor industry. Bitron—in common with many other ‘miracle’ additives—is based upon this1930s technology. Chlorinated paraffins have powerful anti-seize properties, so they were used in the early ‘hypoid’ axle oils until less corrosive compounds were synthesised. In the laboratory they give spectacular results in seizure-test machines which look very impressive, but they now only feature in the cutting oils used for the heavy machining of tough steels; there are no automotive applications for them. In particular, they severely corrode copper-based alloys. Those early hypoid gear lubricants which contained chlorinated paraffins could only be used on totally copper-free devices, hence warnings about using them on the bronze wormwheels of Morgans. Chlorinated compounds can also attack iron and steel at high temperatures. (Easily reached around piston rings, for example.)
As EP (extreme pressure) anti-seize agents their mechanism of action is as follows: When two steel surfaces (such as gear teeth) come into contact at high pressure, tiny areas literally weld themselves together. The welded contacts are ripped off the teeth as they move apart;the common name for this process is ‘wear’! Chlorinated compounds decompose due to high temperatures at points of high-pressure contact, generating layers of soft ferric chloride, which prevent welding. The trouble is that ferric chloride in the presence of even tiny amounts of moisture breaks down to produce hydrochloric acid, which eats into the steel to produce more ferric chloride, which . . . etc etc! The stuff attacks copper alloys at a ferocious rate, and the resulting copper salts act as oxidation catalysts which accelerate oil breakdown. Two vicious circles foe the price of one! (Note that the electronics industry uses ferric chloride solution to dissolve copper from printed circuits. Metallurgists use it to etch stainless steel.)
Since around 1960, therefore, the EP agents in gear oils have been safe and non-corrosive sulphur/phosphorus compounds. Chlorinated paraffins have never been used by any responsible manufacturer in engine oils.
The chlorinated paraffins used in industrial cutting oils are fairly stable, and they are always used with an anti-corrosion additive, but they are never used to cut copper alloys, and they are only necessary for difficult jobs. The Health and Safety warnings we have to issue are rather severe, and there are moves to get rid of these compounds altogether. Oddly enough, the correct warnings never appear on ‘magic additives’, and the distributors, when asked if their products contain chlorinated compounds, say ‘no’ or ‘eh?’. One simple way to find out is to pour a drop into water; if is sinks, it’s chlorinated. (Some of the hydrogen atoms in paraffin are replaced by heavy chlorine atoms, so the density almost doubles.) This doesn’t always work if the stuff is diluted with solvents, so try this one: (Perfectly safe for Morgan drivers, skilled in all dark arts, but watch out if you are a muggle.) Heat a bit of thick, clean copper wire to red heat in a gas flame. Contrary to popular belief, the flame will not turn green! Dip it in the suspect fluid, then heat it up again. If chlorine is present, the flame will turn green, due to the formation of copper chloride. (Much cheaper than our infra-red spectrophotometer!)
Incidentally, chlorinated paraffins are also cheap—around £1 per kg in bulk—which means that the purveyors of miracle lubricants are selling the stuff at a mark-up of at least 1000%. The marketers often don’t know what is in the bottle! They are at the bottom of a ‘pyramid’ sales scam, and they can only repeat the nonsense they have been told. Their publicity implies ‘secret’ knowledge that the bona fide lubricants industry is unaware of. Well! What a nerve!

JR


Make of it what you will. I have come across a few references to the use of these chlorinated paraffins and the detrimental effects of their use over time on the net. Best not to believe what people making money from it have to say.

[Jonny Rochester]

These guys all use a similar machine:
Megapower:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXRZAYli53c&NR=1
DuraLube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDzbWlgVfu4
RoilGold:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1VUxtHn7JM
etc...
as well as Wynns which I have seen in person.

Americans reminiscing about the crap infomercials they grew up with:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QWPIcGjjZo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQ9-yx3NRV4

[sundee]

good info man,, thanks for that, i guess their is always stuff like this laying around the web

[KE70]

Anyone tried adding snake oil in the engines? lol

If you want quality oil, buy royal purple etc, don't add an additive to crappy standard oil.

[sundee]

i use penrite SIN 5 in my 4a and Sin 15 in the hilux

[NIZLAH]

I knew it was too good to be true....

[pen15]

i use royal purple in my 4a just getting the thickness wright im gonna be using a thinner stuff in my new motor as for less kms on it but as for an additive may use royal from royal purple its good stuff

[Eircamae86]

Ive only once bought an oil additive (lucas oil stabilizer), when I was selling my old ae101 Tug to a mate I changed the oil & threw in 1/2 a bottle, she rattled about 2 days later. Not blaming the stabilizer just would be in a rush to get it again. 7afe

[AE86R]

i always put in oil additive before i put in my new oil in my services

[orido]

sounds like the old optimax is the best petrol debate.

[sundee]

sounds like the old optimax is the best petrol debate.

optimax is rank Ultimate FTW! :hehe: