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View Full Version : Rack mount bush doesn't fit.



odessy
21st January 2012, 01:47 PM
Got some superpro Bushes I am installing at the moment and the D shaped rack mount bush doesn't fit properly. It goes on but doesnt make it the whole way around(Where it is split doesnt match back up). Suggestions?

Matt
21st January 2012, 01:51 PM
Manual steering vs Power steering bushes are different.

odessy
21st January 2012, 01:59 PM
What's the difference? I placed the old and new next to eachother and they seem to be the same. I think once the clamp goes on it will hold it in place properly.

johl
21st January 2012, 02:24 PM
I am doing the same thing at the moment. At first there was about a 10mm gap but once I put some pressure on the bush and massaged it all around there is now a 2mm gap. Also you will want a longer bolt on the driver side mount to install it properly. If that doesn't make sense when you go to install it you will know what I mean

odessy
21st January 2012, 02:36 PM
That's the exact problem I am having. Driver's side I cant get the rear bolt back in ><.

skizzamods
21st January 2012, 03:00 PM
It fits, but you have to press it in really tight.
Bolt everything up loosely minus the rear bolt of the D clamp, then get some vice grips and clamp the rear mount down. Get something strong and stick it through the hole for the bolt and use that to pry it into position... that's how I did it anyway.

odessy
21st January 2012, 04:40 PM
Yeah I tried the hardware store for a longer bolt but was told he didn't have that thread. After some clamping it eventually went in, quite a struggle though.

odessy
21st January 2012, 05:14 PM
Can you do the rack ends/tie rods/boots without removing the rack. I just went through the difficulty of getting the rack back on as I never completely removed it and am now on to doing the rack ends and can't seem to get them off ><.

timbo
21st January 2012, 05:45 PM
Can you do the rack ends/tie rods/boots without removing the rack. I just went through the difficulty of getting the rack back on as I never completely removed it and am now on to doing the rack ends and can't seem to get them off ><.

You can, just need a big breaker bar to crack them off. Tie rods should be easy, just need to get the ball joint off with a puller and some gentle tapping.

odessy
21st January 2012, 06:08 PM
Ill have to locate something big enough. Tie rods are all off, just need the rack ends. Was pulling at them for a while before I realised they had a locking tab on the back lol. Future Blake's problem, time to get drunk.

AJPS
24th January 2012, 09:53 AM
javal did a write up in the AJPS section

i also found that when you put them on if you "wrap" them out so it gets into all the corners tight helps quite a bit

Javal
24th January 2012, 02:14 PM
Ill have to locate something big enough. Tie rods are all off, just need the rack ends. Was pulling at them for a while before I realised they had a locking tab on the back lol. Future Blake's problem, time to get drunk.

Rack ends CAN be done in the car, however I usually completely remove the rack as when I change them I am doing a full rack rebuild.

The difficulty in removing the rack ends from the rack center is that you require a very large yet thin spanner to do the job, especially when refitting them. I knock the locking tabs back and have a narrow shifter which fits perfectly, a few good shoves and they just come loose. The alternative is to buy a large spanner the correct size (I cannot recall what size as I use a shifter) then grind it so it is a narrower fit to squeeze in between the locking washer and where the 'flat' section where you put the spanner tapers back in to the round shape of the rest of the rack end.

I don't know how one uses a breaker bar when changing rack ends...


javal did a write up in the AJPS section

i also found that when you put them on if you "wrap" them out so it gets into all the corners tight helps quite a bit

Indeed I did -

FITTING TIPS -
Using this method will dramatically reduce the amount of cursing involved.

On the pinion side of the rack with the 'd' shaped bush, apply bush grease (not included) -
-along the side 'lips' where the 'd' bush mounts on the rack housing
-along the top of the retaining 'shoe' / clamp
-on the bump in the crossmember that locates in the front of the 'd' bush

fitting bushes -
-really work the D bush in, make sure the ends meet at the seam
-fit both bushes to the rack before putting the rack back in the car / fitting any retaining clamps

-fit passenger side retaining clamp LOOSELY - bolts only in a few turns
-put drivers side retaining clamp in place - insert the 'tongue' at the end of the retainer into the 'groove' in the crossmember
-while compressing the back of the retainer with some large multigrips, use a prybar to push the rack forward to push the rack into the locating notch on the crossmember and align the front bolt hole (prying the rack housing forward using the body to lever on). While doing this insert the front retaining bolt. You may need a friend, or you may have to get inventive.
-use prybar to push retainer down into bush, levering off the gearbox to engine brace - fit rear bolt while doing this

timbo
24th January 2012, 05:55 PM
Breaker bar = loose term for hollow pole in my case.

Javal
24th January 2012, 11:52 PM
Breaker bar = loose term for hollow pole in my case.

I see where you're coming from then :)

If I get a stubborn one, a few swift taps with a deadblow always does the trick. I'm always cautious however, due to the fact I use a shifter - and we all know what they have a reputation for doing.