clutch pedal/ gearbox maybe clutch plate issues

[dove grey 64]

im having an issue selecting 1st and 2nd on my 86 (4age adm t50)
this only happens on hot days, i'll go to clutch in and it wont engge in first or second. i've been turning off the motor to get it into first then starting it up again to get going. if i do manage to get it into 1st it feels crap going into second.
i've changed my clutch master recently, fitting a protex one which does the job but leaves no pedal adjustment room and my clutch pedal pick up point is really high. might try shaving 5mm off the pin so the pedal can have more free play.

clutch fluid does not feel too hot. gearbox oil is fine and i dont get a slipping clutch.never pops out of gear and selects gears fine on a cool day.
any ideas?

[Slimer86]

Every Toyota corolla I have had, the clutch always felt a bit strange.
Could bleed it till time and time again, but still have engagement issues.
But, I was using dot 4 fluid all those cases.

Changed to dot 3, and all the issues went away, and never had a problem since.
Interesting to note that the clutch master cap is labelled for Dot 3 fluid only.

[dove grey 64]

interesting, i've got dot 4 too, whats the difference? im sure its not my slave playing up because it does not slip into gear while holding the clutch down in gear, plus im not loosing fluid and no residue around the slave. i've bled it out too.
only started having issues after i had to replace the hard line after the last one developed a crack, new one sits closer to the exhaust but not so close to make it a issue.
i doubt its the pin in the selector fork because it does not happen all the time.

[rthy]

i had a similar issue on my lancer when the car warmed up (10-15mins driving) it started to crunch into gear. for some reason the slave never depressed all the way, leaving little to no play. ended up selling it so never found out why it never went all the way in.

[H8CHIR6KU]

id say your problem is the new master. not really anything wrong with it but you might need to mod it to work properly.

i have found with some brands the new master requires the pin to be cut down around 5mm-10mm (on the threaded section)
then you need to tap extra threads into the shank of the pin. this will allow you to get the right level of adjustment.

easy way to tell is to compare your original push rod from your old master to the length and position of your new pushrod and
adjustment nut. i bet they are way off.

you will see what i mean when you put the 2 side by side.

[timbo]

The above is spot on the money. I replaced the master on my car only to discover the push rod is too long and fouls on the clutch pedal arm. I was lucky enough to just get the right amount adjustment but it really does need to come out and get cut down. Thanks for reminding me Aaron!

[dove grey 64]

i think your both right, i noticed when i fitted it the pin was right against the clutch pedal arm, thought i was lucky and had just enough adjustment like timbo said. i'll take a photo of them both side by side when i pull out the new one this weekend. wasnt somebody else here saying you can re fit the old pin into the new clutch master?

[timbo]

I'm sure you could re fit the old push rod... Good idea if it is possible.

[Skylar]

Hey! I remember having to swap pins with my old master when I replaced mine. It was just held in by a circlip.

[dove grey 64]

well did the swap, the oem pin is about 12mm shorter then the protex part. oem fits well in the new protex part. i swapped pins while the clutch master was in the car, not hard
see what happens over time, would be smart to grab a new clutch slave for piece of mind