Oil filter relocation + oil cooler install

[Multivalve]

Hi all, I drive on a daily basis a Nissan 1400 ute with a 7agte installed. I saw on my oil temperature gauge high oil temprature 120 c with the temp. probe in the sump. I bought a oil filter relocation kit and a 15 row oil cooler. The lines supplied with the kit are all braided and are an10 fittings and internal measure 10mm. I need to know what would be best with the lines. Shorten them to the required length or do I use the lengths as supplied and maybe suffer oil pressure drop? The lines are nearly double the length I would need to do a tidy install.

[Jacobxxx]

Shorten them!

[Tore]

AN8-AN10 works well with 4AGE, but as Jacobxxx already said: Shorten them!

[Rice86]

on my previous AE86 i had the trust gready geniune setup kit, and even then oil pressure did drop here and there. make its short as possible to try and limit oil pressure drop/starvation.

[sundee]

I would be looking into other causes instead of masking the issue.
Running an oil cooler on a daily is not required IMO. Especially in winter!
Oil temp in normal operating conditions will roughly mirror your water temp.
Just more docile with its variation.

How's your oil pressure and water temps?

[Multivalve]

My engine is brand new also the oil pump is new so cold pressure is 5 bar but as the oil get hot it drops down to 2.8 bar, water temperature stay at a constant 80 celcuis, my cooling system is quite big, total capacity is 9.8 liter. The sump is baffled with trap style doors similar to what I saw in previous posts either on this site or on the toyospeed forum.

[Tore]

My engine is brand new also the oil pump is new so cold pressure is 5 bar but as the oil get hot it drops down to 2.8 bar, water temperature stay at a constant 80 celcuis, my cooling system is quite big, total capacity is 9.8 liter. The sump is baffled with trap style doors similar to what I saw in previous posts either on this site or on the toyospeed forum.

What the.. I`m getting between 6-7 bars on completely stock, newly oil flushed JDM engine w/ short filter bolt and filter mounted directly on the block..
Whats up with people getting so low oil pressure nowadays?? 2,5 bars is terrible and will kill your engine way faster than a presumed 120 celcius water temp!
You want 5,5 bars, ideally 6!

[sundee]

Not true.
Eg Sr20 FSM states :

Cold idle - 5.5 bar
Idle warm - 0.8 bar
@3200rpm : 3-4 bar

My rebuilt sr was spot on those numbers with same OEM spec oil viscosity.

Excessive oil pressure is also bad, you can blow out seals at minimum.
Also it should be noted that the oil pressure is determined by the viscosity of the oil.
And FSM figure are with factory spec oil.

[Skylar]

Yeah, you generally want about a bar at idle with the oil and coolant up to temp.

One thing Joel missed is:

Also it should be noted that the oil pressure is determined by the viscosity and temperature of the oil.

a guy on another forum was saying his oil temps were at 60 when coolant temp is up to operating. That is gonna accelerate wear and cause unnecesssarily high oil pressure.

Also, 120 is on the edge of alright. If it hit that every now and then while doings laps on the track, I would probably leave it. If it were approaching and holding closer to 130 then that's definitely oil cooler territory.

[sundee]

Thanks ken for adding that, I was more getting at the specified viscosity on the bottle for normal operating temps will affect your pressure reading .
You are however more correct ;)


Regarding the temps, 120 'C on a daily is way to hight IMO
On the track after about 4 sold laps I'd expect to start seeing numbers over 100'c. But on a daily driver? Just seems like something is not right.

[maxhag]

Not true.
Eg Sr20 FSM states :

Cold idle - 5.5 bar
Idle warm - 0.8 bar
@3200rpm : 3-4 bar

My rebuilt sr was spot on those numbers with same OEM spec oil viscosity.

Also it should be noted that the oil pressure is determined by the viscosity of the oil.
And FSM figure are with factory spec oil.

Joel, mine is very close to these numbers too....
I am running Royal Purple 10w-40w

[Multivalve]

The engine was rebuilt with Spool conrods and Arias pistons. I am using Mobil 20w 50 motor oil in my engine. When we rebuilt the turbo (a t3 t4) the turbo parts supplier didn't have a water cooled bearing housing. I am now using a non water cooled bearing housing and is thinking this might contribute a lot of heat to the oil. On my old setup I had a water cooled bearing housing and never saw oil temperature this high, even when I was competing in gymkhana events. The engine was dyno tuned only to 5000 rpm and 0.8 bar of boost before we pulled the plug on the dyno session due to the engine oil then on 130 c and the pressure had dropped to below 3bar on 5000 rpm. I will be back on the dyno as soon as I can get this high temperature sorted. I am recording these temperatures on level roads driving between 110 km/h and 120km/h and only after 12km from the start of my journey, not a good thing I think! Thank you to all for replying to my question.

[maxhag]

As I was taught, what people call "water cooled" turbos, are generally NOT really cooled that much by the water..... It would a little bit, but not much......... I ran a "watercooled" turbo, with no water running thru it for years with no issues......

From what I believe, their main purpose was to actually heat up the coolant from cold much quicker, IE; bringing the engine up to temp sooner, therefore less wear on the running cold motor.....

[sundee]

That's even worse now it seems that your daily commute is hwy driving.
You really should be seeing oil temps of around 80'c this time of year.
The turbo is mainly cooled by the oil, the water does help but would not contribute to your issue.
Very strange this one.

[Jacobxxx]

Can you post an engine bay photo? Be interesting to have a look!

Put the cooler on! I wouldn't run a built turbo motor without an oil cooler anyway.

[Admiral Ackbar]

The main benefit of water cooling for turbos is preventing the bearing from being heat soaked after engine shutdown.

[Multivalve]

I tried to upload a picture of the engine bay, but to no avail, must be a idoit. How do I get a picture to attach to my reply?

[Jacobxxx]

Upload to an image hosting website like tinypic or photobucket and then there's a little photo symbol above the reply box after you click into it, paste the direct Img URL in there and should work!

[sundee]

Can you post an engine bay photo? Be interesting to have a look!

Put the cooler on! I wouldn't run a built turbo motor without an oil cooler anyway.

so if you had a built motor and it was daily driven 90% of the time you would run an oil cooler?

oil doesn't do its job at both ends of the spectrum... it becomes inefficient the more it moves outside of its normal operating range. cold oil is bad, hot oil is bad.

If you are going to run an oil cooler you should... actually im going to say you MUST run fluid control thermostat.