Why not here's my drifter

[boxhead1990]

Sakura d3

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/y2adybe7.jpg

Yokomo mr4tc rwd

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/vy2e9u9e.jpg


My shells are still clear atm

Yet to cut them out and paint them atm

[Skylar]

What do people do for 'tires' these days?

Does that RWD thing drift? Has someone figured out how to make a RWD chassis drift?

Also, who is Sakura? Are they new? I'm probably retarded and I can't see it but how does the drive get to the rear wheels? There's a battery in the way of a low running belt but I can't see it up high either? No wait, the rear drive belt's been removed, yeah?

I thought about getting one of chassis going while riding to work. Set it back up in "RWD mode" and terrorise the driveway circuit.

[boxhead1990]

3 racing do the sakura d3 and in that pic the centre belt was AWOL while I was waiting for a fresh one to come in the post haha

And yeah the rwd yokomo does drift just has stuff all speed compared to the d3

And tyres man there so much choice

I'm using mst (max speed technology currently)

Ds racing does a better tyre atm tho and $48 posted for 2 sets

[Skylar]

Whats's the compound like? Is it still some ABS type stuff or have they made a compound with more grip. I was never happy with the grip of "drift" tyres brands were putting out. Although that was way back when RC drifting was becoming popular.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/539651.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/kenPro3/media/Pro3/BLPro3.jpg.html)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/539652.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/kenPro3/media/tempRC/DSCF0301.jpg.html)
That's the 'famous' HPI Pro 3 that you probably won't recognise. There's a bunch of vids of it on YouTube from 2002-2003(?).

My old TA02 from when I was trying to get it drifting in RWD on rubber. Strapping the battery to the front to play with weight distribution.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/0/2/5/539653.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/kenPro3/media/TA02/cb5bdeb8.jpg.html)

[boxhead1990]

Well that's one way to do it

And ds racing's compounds work well for rwd and counter steer

The mst tyres have a very short life and are awesome on carpet tracks

[boxhead1990]

My latest purchase

Speed power ota-r31

Was $116 on Rc mart and included a speed passion dokyo 8.5t

I bought a stability kit which gives you all your ball ends for adjustibility and 2 packets of turnbuckles (4in each)

A front one way

And I had a spool with a 32t pulley on it already here aswell as a 23t pully

Spaced the rear lay shaft holder up (trick I learnt with the d3)

I haven't touched the steering at all

Has a cs ratio of 2.16 and I layed the rear shocks down a few holes and apart from that I haven't changed a thing

Very happy with how this chassis performs compared to my d3 which has a very aggressive feel to it where this ones a lot more neutral in the way it changes direction

I'm also using a very slow servo on this car and it's still very easy to catch compared to the d3 now I just need to bling it out ;)

[Skylar]

Trying to pick a chassis to buy. Looking at HPI/HB TC-FD. I don't really like the rear-across battery but I don't really have much choice in the way of chassis. I guess that OTA-R31 is pretty much what I want but seems too cheap? What's the quality like?

There's a lot of belt drive stuff these days. Belt drive just about died off when TC3 won everything. I think the Losi JR-XS and a few tamiyas were about the only things to retain belt drive.

What's a typical powertrain set up? Are batteries mostly still 2S or 6 cell?

[boxhead1990]

Have a look on broadtech.hk

The ota is great the r2 version the teh-r31 is cheaper and the plastic and other parts are brittle

[boxhead1990]

Go for a sensored brushless set with atleast a 60amp esc

And a 7.4v 2s lipo

[boxhead1990]

Also the ota I went with probably has the best steering out of the box compared to most other kits about apart from the mst vip's

[Skylar]

I'm pretty sure my hacker is a 60A ESC but it's sensorless. Is sensored stuff more popular these days?

I took my old Kyosho TF-2 out and thought I sucked at drifting. Turns out one of the front dogbones snapped (from wearing against the axle) at some point in time and I forgot about it. No wonder it was spin-happy. lol. Gonna stick with this chassis for the time being unless I can't find a replacement dogbone. Don't mind if I break/ruin this one since it's a chassis that was given to me. and it's pretty tough. My other chassis are too old to get parts for.

Had a look at the MST stuff and it's nice looking (especially the red/SSG VIP) but too pricey for me.

Need a new charger. Sick of charging off car battery.

[boxhead1990]

Have a look at the bmax b6ac

Iv been using it for 2 years now and were around $59 back then

60amp should be fine the higher amp esc's seem to do a better job at powering high speed amp hungry coreless servo's hahaha

[boxhead1990]

Like the omg ltd 045070c or a savox 1251mg

Which are basically the same servo internally excect I can get the omg version for $50 posted on eBay compared to the savox being 70ish before postage

[boxhead1990]

32673

This is what I plan on doing with my ota eventually32674

With that r2 hobbies upper and lower deck and shock towers and changing over to gold alloy

Will be pretty bling when it's done

I'm gunna re anodise all the alloy on the sakura soon thinking green would be good option for me

[Skylar]

b6ac looks like it'll do what I want it to. Will see if the shop has one.

I never got the deal with fast servos. I'm still using a S3003 on the TF-2, haha.

For some reason, that gold and silver reminds of some gundam model I saw in Japan. lol.

[boxhead1990]

Haha it looks dope in that colour combo

The b6ac is available everywhere iv been so far


There listed on eBay by the thousands haha easily obtainable locally

[boxhead1990]

Also it deffinatly helps with big cs makes it easier to catch haha

My d3 has the above omg servo it's rated at 0.08 at 6v

[boxhead1990]

It also helps greatly when you go rwd aswell especially if your using a gyro it's basically instant to where ever it needs to go to

[boxhead1990]

Also I'd highly recomend a sensored system just for that smoothness and you can really tell the differance in the power delivery between non sensored and sensored

I have a speed passion dokyo 8.5t that I'm gunna use a hobbywing 120amp esc with

Also gunna be changing the super stock esc in my d3 to the same esc when they turn up and I solder the cables on

Gunna get some heat shrink and some braided sleeving and do a proper wiring job on these ones


Makes for a much neater looking setup

[Skylar]

I know exactly what you mean with the power delivery between the two systems. The Novak is good at less than crawling pace but I've put some deadband in in the controller for the hacker so it doesn't cog. Makes it hard to drive when it's RWD.

I did a something similar to this CS thing years ago. I ran the tape on the front tires on the outside, instead of the inside, which have the drive bias to the front. So if the fronts weren't pointing where you wanted the car to go, you'd spin. It felt a lot more realistic than AWD drifting. Had to change driving style to transition the car slower but I still didn't feel I needed a quicker servo.

I watched a few videos last night, these dudes doing RWD, are they using gyros or does the car move slow enough that you can catch it by hand?

What's that motor/ESC combo worth? Is it alright buying cheap electronics these days? Should I buy a Novak or castle creations, or is hobby wing(totally unknown to me and sounds like a cheap brand) stuff ok?

[boxhead1990]

Hobby wing is probably the more realizable out of the sets you listed and the cs guys over drive the rear or under drive the front or a mix of both


Iv been running hobbywing for years now and never had a esc or motor die or break or play up apart from a fan for the esc on 3s on a buggy I had a while back

Rwd wise have a look at the mst fxx s or if you like burning money go for the fxx VIP

And they come with a piazo type gyro

I personally run one that is adjustible by the radio(in my case the 3rd channel on my flysky gt3c)

It's actually a tail rotor gyro and works a treat stay away for the really cheap ones they seem to work well for a little while then break due to the vibration and movements in a car



The key thing to remember with rwd is getting your droop settings right and finding a balance of wheel speed and grip on the given surface

Too much wheel speed and not enough grip and you burn through softer compounds way too quick

If you can steer really well you can definatly get a realistic style going on

Rwd iv touched based with a few times and am getting more successful with each attemp iv pulled the yokomo apart now my next rwd attempt will be a more dedicated rwd chassis

Like the above mentioned mst fxx

The fxx-s is the very basic kit and is all plastic is shaft driven

It works really well after you get your weights in the right spots and the right tyres

The fxx-a is also about 180ish delivered on eBay too

[Skylar]

Hobbywing it is.

Yeah, I'm gonna play around with grip levels on the rear and try to get it to a point where it's grippy but not too snappy or too slippery that it spins all the time. Put more mechanical grip to the rear by playing with springs. But I should buy some oil filled shocks first, lol. Turns out one of my uprights is broken too so gotta figure out a way to fix that as well. Then if I can't get it work, I'll buy a gyro.

[boxhead1990]

Chuck your batter on your rear shock tower and go for a mst soft with a few weights on you lower arms to get it nearly there haha


Also this turned up just now yay
32678

[boxhead1990]

32693

2 of the shells I have been working on recently

Jzx100 is by overdose and the onevia is by pandora Rc

[boxhead1990]

32695
32696
32697

So this is how it's working a treat need to round my front tires a bit more it would seem it had a bit of under steer

But it's working

[Skylar]

That makes no sense to me dude. All that weight in the rear makes it seem like will whip out hard like a porsche or MR2, no? Or is that negated by not having any grip so it's not like you're fighting grip of a rubber tire. I was using weight transfer(feint) to get my car sideways. I ended up putting two batteries on it to weigh it down and slow down it's rotation.

Not that I need one but I had a quick look at radios and it looks like JR don't sell a car radio in the international market anymore?!
You dudes have telemetry these days? What do you use it for?

[boxhead1990]

The mt4s by sanwa and the futaba 4pls are telemetry radios

I have the 4pls and think it's great

Futaba doesn't come with the sensors tho

What do you plan on monitoring?


I plan on having a monitor for voltage and motor temp really and that's about all I need rpm and everything else is fairly useless for drifting to me

[boxhead1990]

And yeah the weight on the rear gives you your speed and helps with keeping it moving while on throttle it doesn't wip around crazy quick for me plenty of people use heaps of rear weight to make the rwd chassis work better

[Skylar]

I don't plan on monitoring anything. I think it's crazy, and cool, that RC stuff is that advanced these days. Synth'ed radios came out when I was still into RC and that was amazing back then. Brushless made it's mainstream debut (and I bought novak's first brushless packages) and Lipo was starting to make a name for itself thanks mainly to a guy called Craps (IIRC) who was running them on his converted truggy.

I shall try more rear weight next time then. Seems counter intuitive to me but these things are exactly scaled down cars either.

[boxhead1990]

Yeah I have a front motor chassis and have moved my battery from middle rear to r
As rearward as possable now

Plus I have about 30 grams of weights mounted up high but will work out a better way to position the weights as the more that weight I change to I sprung weight the better I reckon

[boxhead1990]

Iv actually converted my sakura to rwd and put the yokomo on a shelf as the sakura drives a lot better with less work

[Skylar]

I'm totally eying off this HPI TC-FD on ebay. It's gonna cost a decent amount to fix up the TF-2 to where I want it so buying a current chassis with cool options seems like a good idea. And I can buy spares for the TC-FD. Dunno how well it does a drift chassis though.

[boxhead1990]

If it's any more then 150 posted just go for a 3 racing sakura d3 they should be 110 on eBay plus shipping as the dead stock version

Or have a look on Rc mart for a ota r31 from speed power and option out the rear spool and the front swaybar

And if you need ball ends and cups then grab them off another car if you wanna be cheap

Actually the base speed power kit is 80ish on eBay but that's rcmart under a slightly differant name if memory serves right

Definatly stay away from the r2 hobbies teh r31 the plastic is very very flimsy and youl end up replacing more then just the diffs and 2 pulleys in the long run

[boxhead1990]

But r2 actually do a copy of the yokomo drift package and if you have a look at all the optional stuff that you can put on a drift package the drift package is a really good way to go aswell

[boxhead1990]

I only bought the speed power because I wanted a base mid front motor to play with and slowly upgrade as my sakura d3 is about as upgraded as you can get

[Skylar]

Sakura is tempting, but it doesn't come with enough purple (aluminium) parts on it. Means I gotta choose stuff to buy. and I hate doing that.
I went back to the first page and looked at yours. I want something like yours.
Just looked at ebay. There's a D3 OP for 220 which is decked out with Al arms and all. Still doesn't have a front one way in it. : / Not a fan of the colour too much either.
I been a HPI guy since I got the Pro3 so I think I'll stick with them. At 275 + shipping, I can just about justify it. Will see how I'm doing at the end of my pay period. Wait 'til tax maybe.
I appreciate the advice but I'm super picky on some things.

[boxhead1990]

The pink grows on you haha and the one way is $20 for the full op version which is a very good copy it's mainly the 3 racing's seconds(colour is darker)

I only have alloy arms in the front because I have removed the c hubs for more lock

[boxhead1990]

Also those full alloy ones

Usually they do come with a one way unit and the other tho a you would change would be going to 3 racing front uprights and the 3 racing's steering and the uwa cvd's atleast and maybe adding a tensioner in there for the center belt

[boxhead1990]

32772

So I went to woodford Rc centre tonight to have a look with a mate

Great track once you have your car dialed in to suite the resin surface (I used mst csr red dots on the front and mst red dot ga26 on the rear

Rear shocks fully upright front shocks were just a hole
Or 2 in and camber and caster set to give best contact patch

Gave me enough traction to be able to flick it in and have a nice scale speed going was heaps of fun plus Iv pretty much finished my overdose jzx100 shell for the moment just needs mirrors and minor detail work and il be happy with it :)

[boxhead1990]

I definatly can't go back to a hpi now atleast not for a drifter maybe an off-roader yeah but definatly not a drifter

[Skylar]

What's wrong with HPI?

[boxhead1990]

Just not really a fan most of hpi stuff in aus is mostly touring cars there's only one drifter and there uber expensive to get here and I only know one person who sells them here as the aus importer doesn't bring them in

[boxhead1990]

32835

Made some progress