Jrad
15th September 2014, 04:08 PM
Hey everyone,
I thought I would put up a guide for applying VHT wrinkle plus paint, as there are a few around, but I was still unsure as they aren't made very clear.
The directions on the can are a bit confusing.
What you will need:
1. The object you are painting
2. VHT wrinkle plus - available from Autobarn, Repco and Bursons (cheapest @ $18) N/A from Supercheap
3. Masking tape (optional, but helps when sanding and painting)
4. Sand paper. I used 400, 800 and 1500 grit
5. Prep wash/cleaner/grease and wax remover
Optional: Paint stripper and heat gun.
Step 1:
Remove all the old paint from the object. In this case, I'm painting valve covers.
You can do this by using sand paper or paint stripper. Paint stripper is probably a good option because it gets between the lettering.
33218
Step 2:
Wipe the covers with prep wash.
Don't let it stay on and soak in, otherwise the paint will sillicone up when applying.
So wipe on, wipe off with a clean rag.
Step 3:
Paint the covers. It's REALLY important you follow the directions on the can with this.
You need to do 3 relatively heavy coats in a cross-hatch pattern.
1st coat Vertical, 2nd coat horizontal, 3rd coat diagonal.
Best painting temps are between 16C and 35C.
Make sure to leave 5 minutes between coats, as the paint needs to tack off before getting the next coat.
(sorry, no pics of the painting process!)
TIP: The heavier you put the paint on, the more pronounced the wrinkles will be.
If you Google it, there is a Datsun cover with REALLY noticeable wrinkles in a guide.
I did not want this look, so applied my first coat to just colour the whole cover, but not have the paint almost running.
TIP 2: This paint over-sprays like a mofo. So don't do it near your car or in a small space. Try to do it outdoors.
You can feel the paint land on the hairs on your arms.
33219
Step 4:
Allow to air dry for a minimum of 2 hours.
It will have wrinkled up a bit, but don't touch it! It's probably still a bit tacky.
This is a macro photo of my textured finish. It's a bit finer than others I've seen online. But I like that.
33225
Step 5:
Here's where the can directions get confusing. The can reads:
"Avoid contact with surface for at least 24 hours. Allow 48 hours or more before reassembling parts.
To cure paint, bake in an oven for one hour @ 200F (93C)"
I thought "is that before or after 24 hours?"
So, I baked it after 2 hours of air drying. I did it in the kitchen oven - make sure your mother isn't home.
It makes the house smell of paint, and the oven smell of paint for a couple of days.
Turned the oven up to 100, and then put them in for an hour.
33220
If you don't want to do this, normal operating conditions in your engine bay should eventually cure the paint anyway.
Alternatively, you could use a heat gun. Try to do it all evenly and don't concentrate the heat in one place. Otherwise the finish may be uneven.
Step 6:
Sand back lettering. I first scraped off the excess paint with a sharp razor blade, then worked from 400 to 800 to 1500 grit sand paper.
I placed masking tape around the letters so I didn't slip and flat spot the textured finish.
Finishing with some Autosol to get the letters to an almost polished finish.
332213322233223
Step 7:
Sit back, admire your work, and share it in your build thread :)
33224
I thought I would put up a guide for applying VHT wrinkle plus paint, as there are a few around, but I was still unsure as they aren't made very clear.
The directions on the can are a bit confusing.
What you will need:
1. The object you are painting
2. VHT wrinkle plus - available from Autobarn, Repco and Bursons (cheapest @ $18) N/A from Supercheap
3. Masking tape (optional, but helps when sanding and painting)
4. Sand paper. I used 400, 800 and 1500 grit
5. Prep wash/cleaner/grease and wax remover
Optional: Paint stripper and heat gun.
Step 1:
Remove all the old paint from the object. In this case, I'm painting valve covers.
You can do this by using sand paper or paint stripper. Paint stripper is probably a good option because it gets between the lettering.
33218
Step 2:
Wipe the covers with prep wash.
Don't let it stay on and soak in, otherwise the paint will sillicone up when applying.
So wipe on, wipe off with a clean rag.
Step 3:
Paint the covers. It's REALLY important you follow the directions on the can with this.
You need to do 3 relatively heavy coats in a cross-hatch pattern.
1st coat Vertical, 2nd coat horizontal, 3rd coat diagonal.
Best painting temps are between 16C and 35C.
Make sure to leave 5 minutes between coats, as the paint needs to tack off before getting the next coat.
(sorry, no pics of the painting process!)
TIP: The heavier you put the paint on, the more pronounced the wrinkles will be.
If you Google it, there is a Datsun cover with REALLY noticeable wrinkles in a guide.
I did not want this look, so applied my first coat to just colour the whole cover, but not have the paint almost running.
TIP 2: This paint over-sprays like a mofo. So don't do it near your car or in a small space. Try to do it outdoors.
You can feel the paint land on the hairs on your arms.
33219
Step 4:
Allow to air dry for a minimum of 2 hours.
It will have wrinkled up a bit, but don't touch it! It's probably still a bit tacky.
This is a macro photo of my textured finish. It's a bit finer than others I've seen online. But I like that.
33225
Step 5:
Here's where the can directions get confusing. The can reads:
"Avoid contact with surface for at least 24 hours. Allow 48 hours or more before reassembling parts.
To cure paint, bake in an oven for one hour @ 200F (93C)"
I thought "is that before or after 24 hours?"
So, I baked it after 2 hours of air drying. I did it in the kitchen oven - make sure your mother isn't home.
It makes the house smell of paint, and the oven smell of paint for a couple of days.
Turned the oven up to 100, and then put them in for an hour.
33220
If you don't want to do this, normal operating conditions in your engine bay should eventually cure the paint anyway.
Alternatively, you could use a heat gun. Try to do it all evenly and don't concentrate the heat in one place. Otherwise the finish may be uneven.
Step 6:
Sand back lettering. I first scraped off the excess paint with a sharp razor blade, then worked from 400 to 800 to 1500 grit sand paper.
I placed masking tape around the letters so I didn't slip and flat spot the textured finish.
Finishing with some Autosol to get the letters to an almost polished finish.
332213322233223
Step 7:
Sit back, admire your work, and share it in your build thread :)
33224