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GeeEss
24th October 2016, 03:16 PM
JDM AE92: Oil Cooler + Oil Temp Gauge


I'm upgrading the oiling system on my car < JDM AE92 > as I intend doing some Track Days next year.

I will be running the first 2-3 meets with my current engine while the new engine is being built.

I realised I'd need to upgrade oiling system < JDM car = No Oil Cooler > so I recently picked up an oil cooler set-up from an AU-DM SecaSX (cooler radiator / hoses / hard-lines / sandwich plate / Sump+sump drain union) and mounted the cooler + cooler > hard-line hoses in front of car.

> The SX Seca was very clean; the wrecker told me the owner had flicked it because it blew a head gasket & cost to fix was > book value of car.

I also ordered some baffle plates for OEM sump from Twosrus.com intending to fit them last weekend. My next step WAS going to be to order new springs etc for OE sandwich plate + new hoses & flush out oil cooler.

So. . . .

I went & saw my engine builder last week on another matter & he basically told me I'd bought the above stuff for nothing. He said that the OE set-up wouldn't cut it for Track Duty; especially in Summer. (The OE sump; even with the baffles; didn't impress him...)


He recommended I flick the Sump & get a properly designed unit with an upgraded oil capacity that adequately baffled the oil pick up; i.e. something like the MRP / Moroso unit. I agreed a decent sump is good insurance so I went ahead and ordered the MRP sump (+ new 20V oil Pump)

He also said that re-using a 20 yr old cooler was dumb; especially one off a car that had blown a HG & suggested I get a new larger unit with AN fittings as well as a new Sandwich plate with Integral thermostat as that would also come with AN unions. He suggested min. AN-8 & preferably AN-10 line sizes.

My questions are:

1. Is the above oil cooler upgrade necessary or can I get away with installing the OE oil cooler system with all-new components ?

I understand the need to replace the OE sump but would prefer to retain the OE oil-cooler set-up and just replace all the old parts (i.e. sandwich plate springs / oil hoses / oil cooler rad.). FWIW I'm taking the OE oil cooler unit down to a local radiator place to see if they can spec. a cheaper replacement.

2. Where's the best place to mount an oil temp. sender that's NOT the OE sump oil drain bung?

AFAIK the OE sandwich plate doesn't have a place where I can tap a sensor

3. Can I swap out the clock in the OE binnacle with a 52 mm Oil Temp Gauge, OR getting more adventurous get another water temp gauge & re-purpose that as an oil temp gauge?

I know this may seem OCD but I'd like to keep the instrumentation looking OE & avoid having an extra gauge stuck on the dash or A-Pillar etc. . .

Jimmee1990
25th October 2016, 10:30 AM
Unless you're running slicks and/or decent aero the standard sump is adequate, especially so with extra baffles.

Standard oil cooler setup however is rubbish, and a proper full flow setup is worth the money. -8 or -10 will be fine for the lines. If you've bought a new sump welding a bung on the side for an oil temp sensor is easy before you fit it to the car.

GeeEss
25th October 2016, 11:02 AM
Thanks for that Jimmee; in that case I think I'll pull the trigger on the MRP thermostatic adapter @ below but will hold off getting their 15 row cooler for now.

http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/oil-cooler-thermostatic-adapter/

I'm not a big fan of running braided hose every-where & even though its a PITA will investigate feasibility of buying a manual Tube bender + Flare kit & replicate the OE hard-lines in AN-8 mild or stainless-steel. I'll also look for a cooler closer to the dims of the OE unit so I can use OE brace / mtg points.


PS: On a related matter; my 4AGE is a big-port with no oil drain from the head to block. Is there any way I can tap an oil drain in the back of the head w/o getting metal shavings / swarf in the oil-ways? I've heard smearing the cutting bit with grease helps but am worried that even a minute amount of swarf may damage the bearings / engine.

Jimmee1990
25th October 2016, 06:11 PM
Definitely don't try and drill and tap with the engine together, not worth the risk. Take the head off if you're going that way.