Javal's Mechanical Spirit Guide / 18RG XT130 Hate Machine

[Still Steppin]

so..care to dispell a few of these "myths"?

mine will be going over regency aswell and if i dont need to change some gear out then i wont

[Javal]

Brackets!




Fuel filter bracket! Commodore filter! Because available!




Alternator swingarm! Extended 40mm! Because EA Falcon 85A alternator upgrade!




Brake bias and adjustable proportioning valve brackets! This means i'm only a set of pads away from having everything for the brakes done!




Washer and overflow relocation bracket! Because i'm using RT142 bits for a factory look, I had to find a new home for them as the airbox now populates the original location!




This monstrosity of a coil and resistor block! 18R-GEU have low impedance resistors, and I don't have a factory resistor block. So two for the injectors (2 x 1.2 ohms instead of 4 x 0.625) and one for the coil.




Headlight plugs wired in! Heavy duty ceramic!




Alright i'm going to stop that now. This week coming is going to be a big one. My Amayama order is meant to arrive Monday or Tuesday and with it will come all the little bits to finish the clutch setup, which means my flywheel, clutch, gearbox and tailshaft can go in. That'll be the entire powertrain in place! Also my next round of cloth tape will be in so I can cover up the harness again. Good times.

[Javal]

Well fuck. Might as well slap on some Mickey Thompsons and chuck a S/C LS motor in it now. I've got the rake, now all I need is the rest of it.

[Javal]

Hi team.

So, time for a 'real' re-jig of the front suspension. After the engineer told me I can have all the things I always wanted, I made the decision to go coilover. Tell you what, If I ever have to do this again, i'm just buying some off-the-shelf ones. Plenty of fucking around and money spent on tools that are only going to be used once.



Complete sub-assemblies less caliper. Shiny.






Test fitted to the daily rig - standard strut on the left, coilover on the right. That's a baaaaad control arm angle. Needs RCAs.




Oh, hey, RCA's. These are 40mm. I will need 50's, but i'll fix that down the track.




Installed less brakes. Note I forgot to install the bumpstop on this side. I swore alot.




Hub, rotor, caliper, pads, brake line installed. Huzzah. Time to drop it.




First drop with the shop 'test' wheel fitted. These are the same 15 x 8 -4mm Superlites that I want to run, but they're fitted with a smaller 195/50/R15 to suit corolla. I will run a 205/55/R15 so my rolling circumference is closer to standard and to have a little more sidewall for streetability / comfort. Added bonus is that the larger tyre will take up some of my guard - tyre gap. Better fit a guard and check it.

TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF HOW IT'S GOING TO SIT -

First picture is with a guard on, 15" rim, 195/50/R15.
Second picture is with guard on, 14" rim, 215/65/R14
Using a 15" rim and 205/55/R15, the result will be almost exactly in between the two.



I actually think that's resting on the hoist arm still.






Here's the important one. See that texta mark on the shock? That's at about 60mm. I put that on there to represent my 'bare minimum' travel from rest position to 'full bump' - 2/3rds of the original suspension travel. I need to keep 2/3rds of it for engineering. The minimum is actually closer to 57mm, but I marked it at 60 to be safe. As you can see we have almost 70mm, so i'll leave it at this height to factor in weight of the panels and remaining components (radiator etc).

Anyway, legal as. Just waiting to hear back from the engineer.




Full droop. Should handle potholes just fine.



The, uh, rear gap. I'm needs to come down about 70mm to be level with the front (!). I'm going to have the spring re-set and 55-60 taken out. Still have to factor in the weight of the interior / doors / panels etc.




Daily rig and it's replacement.

Getting exciting. Front and rear swaybars (24mm selbys and 18mm whitelines I picked up 2nd hand), front castor / swaybar mounts (which have been modded to accept the 24mm bar) are at the powdercoaters. Once the springs are re-set and I find some good rear shocks to keep it all captive, suspension is done, at a low and legal height.

I am stoked.

EDIT - also ground clearance at the moment is at about 140mm

[AJPS]

[slide86]

Want to build my car? Will pay $15 an hour.......so a pay rise from Metros.

[Javal]

YOU need to build your car. Srsly bro. I'm going to be on the road long before you and you're so close!

Pay yourself a reward wage, $100/hr to spend on the car for every hour you spend working on the car.

[AJPS]

i am betting $100 delazy is on the road before huw......haha

[Konakid]

haha, good shit.

[Javal]

Hi all,

I've been meaning to update this for a while, made a bit more ground doing all the little things.

Got the brakes working. Took a little work to bleed a bone dry system, we used quite a bit of PBR DOT3, but myself and the girlfriend got there in the end. Pedal feels good and solid, however there's no real telling what the pedal effort is going to be like until it hits the road. Based on the calculations I did rating master cylinder surface area against caliper surface area, I should have a pedal effort damn close to stock, in theory. Communism and rotaries work too, in theory (jks).

Full master



4 wheel discs. LN106 Landcruiser front 4 pistons, Peugeot rotor. ST141 Corona caliper and disc rear. Braided lines where possible.



Honorary pedal rubber application when that pedal becomes useful



Oh yes I have a clutch and gearbox that work too. I fitted my 4.5kg (or was it 5kg?) lightweight flywheel, exedy heavy duty clutch and the W50 I rebuilt a few months back. Braided line for the clutch slave because it's definitely a race car.



OH I fitted that front 24mm swaybar - it suits an AE86 but the only differences are a section in the middle to clear crank pulleys (for engine converted cars?) and overall they're 10mm wider. This made fitment a little tricky but not impossible. Fitted AJPS 50mm RCAs so my LCA clears my disc by a bit more, as well as AJPS motorsport tie rod tubes so I can fuck off my ratty old ones.



I put the rear 18mm in too and had the rear springs re-set 50mm lower. Still not enough. I've resigned myself to the fact i'm probably going to have to sort the rear ride height out as one of the last things I do, once the interior is in and the panels are on. Even then it's still going to be trial and error. Guh.
[


I got my fusebox bracket a few weeks ago but hadn't fitted it. Probably should have done that sooner. Tranforms the birds nest into a somewhat organized mess.
]

I did some more wiring in the engine bay today also. The coil and injector resistor wiring is done. It's a bit of a clusterfuck and I spent hours trying to work out how to best route things. This is what i've ended up with. I'm not totally happy with it but that's because the setup is inherently clunky and bulky (3 ballast resistors [2 for lowimpedance injectors as I don't have the standard resistor block and they're fucking unobtainable for 18RGEU, as well as 1 for the coil], old oil type coil, seperate igniter module, distributor mounted reluctor). I'll fit a much slicker set up one day when I build an 18RGTE.



Did some of the B+ and primary ground wiring because that's something i'll be needing soon for first power-up.



Engine bay looks like this overall. Not far off completion. Although I've made provisions to fit an RT142 factory airbox, i've decided to go with a mushroom pod filter for packaging and aural purposes. I'll procure one in the coming weeks and make an adapter to fit it to the AFM which probably needs a lick of paint.



Um, yeah.

What's coming up?
The windscreen surround chromework and the window archline chromework is at the polishers getting done, that should be ready next week.
Then the brand new front and rear windscreens can go in
Then the rooflining which is getting made up for it can go in
Then i'll put the carpet in, and then it's dashboard time!
Then first power-up and hopefully no fires.

Exciting stuff.