20V Conversion AE86

[LittleRedSpirit]

The chita kit makes sense in an 86 since it just tries to make the 20v fit in all the same way as a bigport as far as the cooling goes. Personally i prefer to base such decisions around the motor, not the chassis.

Kudos for not paying a fortune. I've never seen the chita kit advertised for less that the $700 mark, then add some shipping and exchange possibly. Thats also around what the t3 kit costs. The t3 kit gives more for your money since they custom make almost every part in there.

If you honestly rate the importance of having fewer connections in the system to leak from, you would do it the way I have done it (and described above) and use only 4 hose clamps in the system.

[Matt-AE86]

¥46,326 Landed to my door. I paid $716~ at a shit rate of 64yen.

So say we bought it today 80yen... $579~

That said I only bought the Chita kit cause I wanted the cleanest stockist possible look. If I was to do it again I would just get a SamQ rear plate, and flip the front outlet, and be done.

[Sam-Q]

ok I'll bite:

With the RS Chita kit I like the top outlet but I dislike the rear bypass. Yes to some the rear bypass may look more stock that others but it does stick out further and is more limited. For example many people I get want to run no heater, different sensor combinations, have the heater outlet facing the other way (pre ke's, old celicas, etc..) or just some other odd requests. This is why I designed mine the way I did. The other gripe I have with the RS Chita kit is the price, it is quite high at $800 or so, and even then I hear you still need to shave bits of metal here and there to make it fit.

My rear plate as shown below. This is the most common type- it has provision for the 20v ecu sensor, 4ac/4ag dash temp sensor and a left hand heater outlet barb for cars such as AE86/AE71 and KE70's. The catch is the ISCV valve has to be moved down one bolt hole or relocated when the heater is used and the sensors arn't easy to change once bolted to the head.






Shown installed with sensors in place and a Kaizen dizzy cap used. Normally the factory bolts and nuts are used instead of these cap heads.





Coil plate adapter with 1NZ coils fitted, link to build blog:






I also like the look of the Yager top outlet and while it's not cheap it does look pretty neat, admittedly more professional than what I offer, the problem is sourcing one.


Here is what I think is the most cost effective option out there being unbiased:

- External thermostat off a 4ac powered ae82
- rear bypass, side block off plate and top water outlet from myself
- stock unmodified 20v front and rear pump half.

thats it, as for the ignition system using 1NZ coils.

[Sam-Q]

now the other parts

gearbox spacer: I never used one, maybe you guys can tell me how much difference it makes.

coilpacks: I also use 1NZ, I love it:



apologies for the crappy quality pic, I now have a new camera. By memory the tubes in the coilpacks are 0.5mm larger than the 20v spark plug tubes, so by taking it down 0.8mm or so its a nice fit. I used a 4 jaw chuck for the body end with a live center on the spark plug end, quite a hair raising job.

Info on coilpacks here:




Delazy: I am like old and shit, whats devo mean?

Grant #2: post some pics on here if you can.


I personally dont think there is anythign iffy about having that one port above the throttles having hot water instead of cold, infact I think it might even put more thermal stress on the head if it got too hot. I still plan on doing some temperature measurements on some heads to compare differences.

[Jonny Rochester]

Prototype. Camera phone.

This pipe uses the standard AE86 top radiator hose. A fitting is pressed into the waterpump and a short piece of hose is used for the bypass.

[H8CHIR6KU]

check out my buiold thread if you want to see a combination of parts to make the 20v neat. granted it is only a track car so no heater, even still it would still work out neat.

i used the rs chita top outlet, sam q rear water plate and water pump plate, also the 16v rwd water pump. all up just 2 hoses and 4 clamps. the most important part is it was easy and there are not many places that it can leak from without being to hard to repair at the track.

also sam the rear gearbox plate was so useful. the difference between fitting my trumpets and having to buy smaller ones. also i can get my hand in the back of the engine easily

[Sam-Q]

yeah I understand you, regardless it still looks decent. I figured out the reduced size from the other pics in your worklog. I am no expert but I would think even a 5mm opening is enough of a bypass.

[Sam-Q]

I might as well put a link up here:

[Grant #2]

Sam, you have what is going to be a really awesome website, but you should have a friend re-read the articles you have written. It seems to be in Alpha stage right now.

Thanks for making it, I've read the cam page a couple of times.

[Sam-Q]

hahaha now how can I argue with that. As you can tell my english skills don't match my technical ability. I should give everything another read myself as I should be able to pick up some things I didn't at the time. What would usually happen is I put a heap of effort into writing something and by the end of it I would be like 'screw it I have had enough' and post it.

But you are right and thanks

Oh also that cam guide is only a very vauge guideline