20V Conversion AE86

[dtour]

AE86 RWD 20V Conversion

When researching the 20V conversion I came across a few headaches for one some people’s attitudes just sucked I know there is a search function! Every time I used it I got a thread with the answer use the search function. I have created this thread to make it a shit load less confusing to do this conversion, I have also included the places where I go the parts from because i know getting this stuff can be a pain in the ass.
So here it is all in one place, bias free.
This is not the cheapest way to perform this conversion but in my opinion it is the right way.

*Will be uploading pics soon to make it even more clear*

Parts Needed:
- 20V 4age
- RS-Chita Waterkit – RHDjapan.com
- 16V RWD Waterpump, thermostat housing, bypass pipes for heater – imported from japan by Craig @ Just JDM
- 16V altenator bracket – imported from japan by Craig @ Just JDM
- 16V crank pully – imported from japan by Craig @ Just JDM
- Distributor blanking cover/Crank angle sensor cover – Made by me
- 2NZ Coilpacks off a Toyota echo – Pick N Payless
- Ecu and loom – Kaizen Garage
- MAP Sensor – Comes with ECU and loom
- RWD extractors – Kaizen Garage
- Clutch to suit a 212mm flywheel – Excedy
- Fuel pumps: One low pressure lift pump, one high pressure efi pump and Surge tank – Rocket industries
- KE70 Accelerator cable
- Trumpets – Techno Toy Tuning
- Thermo fans
- Gearbox mount spacer - had it machined out of 10mm thick alloy plate



Ditributor cover/CAS Cover

- Remove the spark plug leads
- Unscrew the three screws holding in the distributor and remove the cover
- Measure 3cm from the opening to the back of the cover
- Using a utensil of your choice to cut the excess part of the cover off
- Make a ‘mould’ by taping the end that was cut off
- Lay in a sheet of fibreglass and coat with resin once the resin is touch try remove the tape from the cover and coat with another layer of resin
- Smooth to your satisfaction and paint the colour of your choice


^^^What you should be left with after removing the cap and rotor button^^^

^^^Showing the fiberglass on the inside^^^

^^^DONE^^^
2NZ Coilpacks

Perfect height for the 20V however the diameter of the shaft is greater than that of the motor. All that is needed to fit the coilpacks is to file down the shaft of the coilpack until it fits down the tube.
Picked mine up from Pick N Payless for $80 for a set of four.




RWD Exhaust

20V Rwd extractors from kaizen garage, if you are using a ADM T50 where the clutch slave is on the passenger side of the transmission. You will require a 90° fitting for the connection also available from kaizen



Intake

You cannot use the standard airbox without modifying it to suit a RWD operation, if u wish to use it you have to seal the original opening and create an opening on the opposite end off the air box. That is a bit of effort so I decided to use velocity stacks/trumpets. When going down this path a MAP Sensor is required.



ECU and Loom

It is not possible to use the standard ECU due to the use of coilpacks and removal of the distributor.
I used the Adaptronic ECU and loom custom made by Anthony at Kaizen

Clutch

If you are converting your AE86 from a 4AC your flywheel will not fit the 20V motor the 4AC has six bolt mounting and the 20V has 8 bolts so ensure that you get a manual 20V motor. Most transmission places will be able to match a clutch to your flywheel. So you will need a clutch and a spigot bearing. Spigot bearing number is 6001
Thrust bearing is a NACHI Bearings product and it needs to be pressed onto the sleave that connects to the clutch fork. the part number for the bearing is BRG2155
the clutch and pressure plate are just the regular 200 or 212mm setup for a 4AGE


Thermo Fans and Radiator

If you are converting your AE86 from a 4ac i recommend replacing the stock radiator, as a mininmum a JDM 4age radiator(Twin Core) often you can pick up a cheap aluminum twin core off ebay and upgrading to twin thermo fans is also a must, two 10 inch thermo fans work well.


Gearbox Spacer

After mounting the motor and gearbox there can still be issues in regards to clearance of the heater core hoses and the tumpets hitting the brake booster. to correct this i had a spacer made up to lift the gearbox and the rear of the motor to gain the extra clearance that you need. this is not always necesary it just depends on your setup.

[Matt-AE86]

All parts can be easily ordered through Jesse Streeter. Makes life easier and overall it will end up cheaper.

Another way to fit the 2NZ coilpacks is to initially file of the higher points then use rough grit sand paper, wrap it around the coilpack stem and turn back and forward vigorously. Check it often and test fit it in the plug hole.

[DRFTR86]

Sam q on here makes a 20v rwd waterkit aswell, and has plenty in stock

i beleive he also does a adaptor plate for different coilpacks aswell

sq engineering ftw

[Matt-AE86]

Rs-Chita Kit is the way to go. The quality is awesome and it puts everything in a stock position for 16v hoses heater and radiator. If you are going for a clean neat freak install. The even supply orings for water pump to block and the bypass pipe from the top outlet to a rwd water pump rear housing and other gaskets etc. A manual booklet with installation instructions, specifics for silver and blacktop variants as there is very small differences in the block.

If anyone wants one of this send me a PM.

[Grant #2]

Some of the people on club4ag (including myself) just replicated the RS chita kit by using 16V parts and a block off plate that was on ebay. The only welding was to create a water outlet, like the casting that RS chita made. It was about $130 USD when I was done.

[Delazy]

does it look anywhere near as neat as the rs chita water outlet?? prolly not...does it come with EVERY gasket and part you need?? prolly not...is it a pron branded jap part...definately not lol...

quite happy with my rs-chita kit...not cheap..but the water outlet alone is worth the money...so mint, you'd nearly think it was totally factory...

quite devo that ive decided to run no heaters and plan to butcher the rear plate to achieve a neater finish

[Matt-AE86]

Don't need to butcher the rear plate. leave it on there and just plug up the pipe.

[Grant #2]

W/e man, you speant your hard earned cash on that kit, I decided to piece the kit together myself.

And it looks just as neat as RS chita, BC ITS THE SAME THING haha.

It's fine man, if I bought the kit and I found out you could just grab some parts and have the same thing, I'd be defending it too, don't worry.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Its a nice kit but Id prefer to use the techno toy tuning kit since it replicates the Toyota cooling system and its flow more closely. Its about the same money. That is if I wanted to spend close to a grand for no reason.

Bang for buck you only need three compnents to get a good, functional cooling system. If you have accepted that you will be not routing the water the same way as Toyota, that is.

A sam Q rear blockoff and sensor plate, a small blockoff plate for behind the extractors (make at home) and a Yager motorsport front thermostat fitting. You really dont need a bypass, just run a slight colder thermostat so it stays open when your up it. It all works a treat, thats how Ive had mine, and it would cost under $300 to fit, including a new thermostat and some blue goo.

I dont understand at all why the RS chita kit is 'better' than any other way of doing it. A 16v water system doesnt translate to a 20v water system, so to treat it the same is wrong in my opinion. Yay its japanese, once you stop caring about wheteher your 20v water kit gets you some JDM rep, you may realise that its the wrong way to do it.

[Delazy]

I myself did consider the t3 kit. But my preference leaning towards the clean oem look of the rschita or a pieced tohether kit. The other factor was external piping which i wanted to stay away from as the possibility of introducing leaks into the system was likely. Consider it preventive maintence.

Also not quite sure ehat or where yout spending close to 1k on the kit, cause i certainly didnt. Also paid quite substanially less than the t3 kit.