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Thread: custom steering Knuckles and getting max lock

  1. #21
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    Yes, See how a standard arm has like that bend in it, and where the tie rod is mounted is offset to the ball joint hole.

    When you are full lock, say.. doing a right hand corner, you are full lock to hte left. The outside wheel, which would be the passenger side will have most lock and hte inside wheel will not have as much. It will actually be dragging. So removing some of all of it, increases the inside wheel's lock.

    Speaking to a good friend in japan he recommends just removing ackerman from p/s arms and the extra lock you get on the inside wheel is enough

  2. #22
    Veteran bigm's Avatar
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    im running T3 arms in my car. they are so short that the tie rod hits the LCA on the closest setting (90mm from balljoint)

    I put it onto power steering hole (115mm) and it gives me more clearance to the tierod/LCA but the steering arm is very very close to level with the rack arm...

    i duno how to go about moving the rack forward?

    how did u overcome it on your car Boost+k?

    and it is called binding when your steering arm and rack arm are at the same angle yea? you cant move at all?

    This is a pic with it on the inner most setting.


  3. #23
    Veteran bigm's Avatar
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    yea thanks mate, i just wasn't sure where the measurements were taken from. ill measure my ones when i have them off next.

  4. #24
    Senior Member --Redwork--'s Avatar
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    Binding is when the ball joint the tie rod and the knuckle in the rack end are all inline..

    The pic of yours Bigm is not binding...
    Everyone on NS complains about binding with shortend knuckles in there s13's..

    My s13 knuckles are shortend and i don't have any issues with it binding up.. And s13 into 86 is sposed to be worse than in S13..???


    I've been waiting AGES for you to tell me how those knuckles went in your car Robo..
    Can't believe you forgot about them...

    I feel so neglected..

  5. #25
    Veteran Robo86's Avatar
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    hahaha, been busy man. put urs in but havnt put coils back in yet. The angle isnt 100% where the tie rod end bolts in. kinda doesnt wanna fit, but ill see!

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  6. #26
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    the JDI fabrication arms are, 10mm shorter than PS arms and 7mm off 0 ackerman.
    robo i will still get a pic over the weekend sometime

  7. #27
    Senior Member --Redwork--'s Avatar
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    I was wondering if that might be a problem Rob...

    I made them flat without the twist that the factory puts in them.. Its much easier to make the jig if you do them like that.. Plus they're only a prototype.. No biggy if they're quite right..
    I noticed that a few of the aftermarket machined arms are flat so I figured it would still be alright..

  8. #28
    Veteran NIZLAH's Avatar
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    Cant coment too much on this but Ive just replaced my standard knuckles with the T3 items due to one being bent... I'm not/wasn't really looking for an increase in lock, just a stronger alternative.
    The T3 knuckles are fuckin beefy as, solid steel around 15+ mm thick. I have them on the outer setting and my 15x8's 0 offset rims (195/50s) touch the inner guard wall on full lock, the other issue Ive encounted is on full lock the bottom of the arm hits (slightly) the top of the stock castor arm where it mounts to the LCA, but I think this is due to having xt130 arms....

    This could probably be easily fixed by grinding a small amount from that area on the arm......

    Haven't driven it yet apart from a lap down the street at no more than 15kms so cant really provide much more feedback other than the steering was pretty heavy but very direct (I have a quaife rack also)
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  9. #29
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    There shouldn't be a problem fitting them unless the tie rod hole ID has changed. Just move the tie rod end bit around to fit in. My Garage Clear ones are flat.

  10. #30
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    hey man products still retain the twist

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