each to their own.
Guys, I've just got a stock adm rack with aussie steering arms, running 195/50/15's on 8" rims and on full lock my wheels already grind away at the inside of the guard, so much so that it looks like polished metal. So if I got p/s arms wouldn't that make the problem even worse? How do you all run so much lock without this problem, the only way I can think to fix this is to run spacers on the front or increase the front track with lower offset rims.
Getting PS arms will just give u more lock, so it will just jam the wheel into the inner guard even harder
What offset are the wheels?
increasing the track , with wheel offset or longer LCA's is your answer, or a slip on spacer for quick fix . dont quote me on this but i thin for 8's up front u need atleast a Zero offset to get clearance.
I've got 8" front with -4 offset. Going to get bolt on guards and +25mm bolt on spacers all round so that should solve the problem
i think even my 14x8 -12 still rub
Originally Posted by biggo
dom86 : heres a pic but i dont have a referance pic of a factory one to compare to
intense :you need longer lower arms for big lock potential... i run 195-45's at the track for more clearance also, you should get away with ke30 lower arms with manual steer arms, there about 10mm longer, are you running camber plates aswell?
Yeah already got camber plates maxed out, cusco ones that only max out at -1.5 degrees. Planning to go bc coilovers later on so I should be able to get more camber out of those. If I were to go a different set of lca's I'd probably use corona ones because they're easy to come by.
youll want to set it max posative to stop rubbing if u think about it, its pulling in closer at the top.
Just cause the Garage clear arms have lumpy welds doesn't mean their any dodgier than any other cut/shut arms. If it's welded, it's welded, if you get paranoid grind it smooth.
Been running Hey-man arms for awhile now. Cut and shut arms lock aren't any greater than powersteering arms, the difference is of course ackerman, since both wheels are pointed towards the way your steering instead of one giving more drag, therefore, whilst sliding you will feel less front scrub and actually be able to carry more speed through your entries and mid slides. The difference in lock is that you'll get to max lock faster and have quicker steering.
Someone mentioned about how you stop scrubbing on your wheel walls and how you would get anymore lock. You need more castor and more track, then it won't scrape.
For track use, shortened and 0 ackerman knuckles are great, even for street it's awesome, but you can definitely live without it. Work on other aspects of suspension/chassis before this, it's one of those things where, unless your getting real technical and your car can match your driving skill, you won't really notice it. Example, if your still arse dragging and doing weak entries, it's just silly.
Intense : your camber plates won't be helping... better to go for longer lower arms and set the camber plates further out to get clearance
IMO camber plates are not for gaining camber they are only there for tuning the setup/ getting even settings, i always run longer arms to gain the camber i want...
just remember that any track you gain in the front you should also add to the rear to keep things balanced
yea corona/ke30 arms same thing so all good
what ae86hachiroku said is dead right, drive your setup to its limits then start doing things like this to get faster/smoother
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
