Your Suspension Setup

[Valkyrie]

Update

Car: RA60 with a 1JZGTTE
Car use (e.g grip/drift): Track drift only but passed engineering 2 weeks ago.
Front Struts: RA60 shortened ~40mm with weld-on sleeves.
Spring Rate/ Free Height: 8kg
Inserts (brand/model): Koni Yellows (AE92 I think).
LCA's: Sigma
RCA's (size if you have them): 33mm T3
Strut Tops: Standard
Front Sway Bar: 24mm
Castor Arms: Standard (adjustment is more or less maxed out)
Steering Arms: T3 steering arms set to the shortest setting.
Lock Mods: AJPS lock spacer
Brake Calipers: RX-7 4 pots
Brake Disks: Z31 274x22mm


Rear Springs: 6kg 200mm
Rear Shocks: Pedders Suzuki Sierra
Panhard Rod: AJPS modified with smaller nuts to increase adjustment.
4 Link: Factory
Rear Swaybar: Standard
Rear calipers: ST141
Rear Disks: ST141 281x10mm
Differential: MX23 F-Series
Differential Centre: Mig technician I have a TRD 2-way literally sitting under my bed to go in it.

Pros: The front end feels a lot better with the Toyota gear back in. S13 gear does work, but feels a little strange at time. There is a lot of lock with the current setup, and it feels very stable when hard under brakes (car will do some sprint days as well). The car slides quite predictably, but I need to practice a lot more

Cons: The excellent setup at the front has highlighted the lack of rear end development. I need springs that seat properly, and some better shocks. I also need to chase up my adjustable rear swaybar I ordered.

The car has new bushes front and rear.

[KurtHS]

Continuing on from this, although I've yet to drive it the car has...


Car: AE71
Car use (e.g grip/drift): hills/drift
Front Struts: AJPS Coilovers
Spring Rate/ Free Height: 8KG/Unsure quite low.
Inserts (brand/model): Bilstein
LCA's: XT130 changed from the Sigma LCA's it used to have, they suited their purpose in achieving epic lock but they weren't really suited to street driving, the camber tops were set to full positive and even then there was still a bit of negative camber, 15x8's would poke a shit load under flared guards.
RCA's (size if you have them): Still none
Strut Tops:Tein adjustable
Front Sway Bar: A fair bit thicker but I'm not sure how thick, 15mm maybe.
Castor Arms:stock

Rear Springs: AJPS 6kg/mm 215mm free height may chop off a coil or so because it's a little too high in the rear.
Rear Shocks: Boge Turbo shocks,
Panhard Rod:AJPS
4 Link: Stock
Rear Swaybar: May be stock or could be a little thicker.

Bracing: None at the moment.

Plans/Settings: running 3.2 neg camber, 0 toe, 3 degrees castor
plans r to convert front to coilovers and 7kg springs with bilstein inserts and RCA's
rear i plan to run bilsteins and get a 20mm swaybar, maybe raise it up a lil too

Pro's: seems to be alright at the moment, cant wait to bilstein it up!
Con's:lil sloppy

Mine: Build engine, get an alignment then start playing with it all after I see how it handles, buy a front strut brace and make a rear one.

Extra Comments: Still has fc brakes, custom steering arms and lock spacer for epic lock but now the lock is held back by tyre scrub after changing the LCA's. New urethane bushes throughout.

[slydar]

Car: AE86 coupe
Car use (e.g grip/drift): grip/daily
Front Struts: 86, coilover, shortened ~60mm
Spring Rate/ Free Height: 6kg with helper
Inserts (brand/model): kyb excel g late celica
LCA's: stock
RCA's (size if you have them): 40mm
Strut Tops: SP-tec
Front Sway Bar: 27mm? pedders
Castor Arms: normal

Rear Springs: AJPS 4.5kg custom 215mm
Rear Shocks: 2nd hand comodore wagon
Panhard Rod: stock
4 Link: stock
tractions brackets: yes
rear sway bar: trd 16mm?

Bracing: cusco front tower brace

Pro's: quite decent as a daily. heaps of grip
Con's: too much grip

Extra Comments: was hoping the car would still be slide able. def not. i have a small port with cams and there is just no where near enough power.

[shift_rook]

what tyres are you running? what speed are you entering corners? you mean it just pushes to understeer before anything happens or you just can't break traction? might be worth looking into reverting to stock front bar

[Jacobxxx]

I'd go standard sway bars, if people can skid standard bigport with lockers and cut springs, your smallport with cams shouldn't have problems..

[KurtHS]

Keep the rear swaybar and either ditch the front swaybar all together or run a stock one.

[shift_rook]

i wouldn't ditch the front swaybar only running excel g's in the front, the roll rate would be terrible, one small thing at a time. if it promotes to much understeer it might be worth swapping out both

[claw]

soften front tyres, run 40 + in rear, youll spin anything, stock front swaybar is the go also

[slydar]

probably should have mentioned that.

the tires are Hero Fidanza HZ-1s front and rear. the balance is ok, i can make it oversteer, it just doesnt have enough power to actually maintain a drift.

i dont think its my driving at all. i wouldnt say im inexperienced, ive drifted cars with less power also.

its not really surprising. that type of tire ( considered a match for a 595, ive driven both and would say thats pretty accurate) and that soft of a spring rate probably wasnt ever going to work (maybe on dirt), but ive never run springs that soft in my car so i wasnt sure.

i know what to do to make it slide. i was more mentioning it for information for people considering running spring rates that soft. i was just surpised with how much grip it has. some old farts would say thats still kinda over sprung.

[benzo]

front swaybar is huuuge. I ran a 24mm (+17mm rear) for two weeks and hated it

I'm sure you've got it all figured out