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stroke is 85.5mm, bore is 81~mm, (16v combustion chamber is 38cc not sure on 20v),
I just posted this in the other section, but I just realized this thread is here.
Guys, can I use high comp 4ag pistons (10:1) with 7afe block and ae111 head? Will the compression ratio be acceptable? I have Kelford 270 duration cams. Thanks!
stroke is 85.5mm, bore is 81~mm, (16v combustion chamber is 38cc not sure on 20v),
Is the piston to deck gap the same as it should be when using 4a pistons on the 7a block? Meaning is the piston close to being flush with the 7a deck at TDC?
from memory yes, but you will need to work out many many cc's are taken away from 4a pistons (due to the 7a ones being a lot lower comp)
Hey guys,
I'm thinking of buying Belfab rods for 7a in the US. They are $425 plus shipping and tax (maybe $470 when all is said and done). I'm not positive they come with ARP2000 hardware, they might just come with ARP's lower grade line of chromoly bolts. The pistons speeds are quite high at 8,000 rpm so I'm afraid to take too many shortcuts here. I'm also not even sure if the big ends come completely honed and ready to go or if the machine shop needs to do that for me.
I'm just now researching which actual rods to get, can you guys give me any input? I would buy Seamus' rods but I think the cost to get them to the US would be prohibitive?
hit up delazy, he used those rods for his build.....
RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
06/07/2011
Belfab dont come with ARP2000 hardware.
That said i have had a set from early on which have survived several 11k+ misshifts, and regular 9800rpm on the limiter down the back straight.
From my 7AGTE 20V experience,
when I first assembled my 7AGTE I had no trouble with the cam timing,
I had a 20V Blacktop oil pump with the hydro tensioner,
(but modified the hydro part to mechanical as they are out of the end of thier travel)
a Standard 20V crankshaft sprocket,
and ran a 16V 4AGE belt on the standard cams wheels and it all lined up properly.
Or so i thought.
The car ran like that for a while and made good power.
It ran a bearing through a broken oil pump and during reassembly we found that a BT and a ST 20V crank shaft sprocket are marked differently,
so it appeared to be lined up but we had been running it out of time so to speak.
It had been going so well we put it back together with the cam timing out again.
Bazda made 330kw at around 27psi and I made the same on 20 psi boost.
Also maybe helped by my compression ratio is closer to 9:1 where his is supposedly around 8.0:1
So on a turbo motor maybe the cam timing is better off 'out of spec'.
Also of note may be that when i put adjustable cam wells on it and timed than correctly,
it made anoth 5 hp at 8000rpm, but lost about 40hp at 6500rpm.
Next time i go back to the dyno it will be with the standard cams and wheels in the wrong position.
Also I think Bazda has stopped chasing HP now that I beat him by about 20kw at less boost.
I got it up to 354kw @ 21psi, on Standard 4AGZE pistons and rings, with a standard 20V headgasket and headstuds,.
im confused how you choose the right belt to use? is it the length of the belt or the height between the cams and the crank?
It is also influenced by the oil pump you are running...
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