PLEASE bare with me, and don't go telling me to buy aftermarket ECU's and all that bullshit, i'm not interested haha. I am trying to do COP/DLI with the stock ECU, with a 20V igniter, but WITHOUT a factory coil zapping away to provide the tach signal etc.
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Ok, so
On a standard 20V igniter, it has five wires:
IGT - a +5v signal from the ECU to tell it to do something
IGF - a confirmation signal to tell the ECU the coil fired and winning
Blk/Wht - 12V+
Blk - Tach
Blk/Brwn - ??? Grounds the coil to charge it, and releases the ground to discharge its' magic ???
On the coil it has two wires:
Blk/Wht - 12V+
Blk/Brwn - As above with the igniter, a 'grounding' wire???
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Now, on club4ag forums (and others), it's all the rage to use 1ZZ/1NZ coils - which have four wires:
IGT
IGF
Ground
12V
They simply splice into the IGT wire before the igniter, the 12V+ before the igniter, ground the coils to the body, and ditch the IGF wire. Now, these guys have mixed results - most of them who run the factory igniter only have problems with tacho's not working, and 5k rev limits ----- guys who run factory igniter AND coil (along with all the 4 1ZZ/1NZ coils) end up having a working setup, with a factory coil zapping away, shocking passengers and generally making a load of noise.
ANYWAY, this finally brings me to my question (holy jesus) - is there ANY way i can utilise the blk/brwn wire coming out of the igniter, with the 1NZ/1ZZ coils? This wire is clearly the reason that the 'only factory igniter' guys have problems - ae86 tacho's run off that negative/ground of the factory coil.
Like, can the 1ZZ/1NZ coil be run in the same fashion as a 20V coil? I.E - 12V spliced above the igniter, and the blk/brwn wire either hooked up to the IGT or the ground wire on the 1ZZ/1NZ coils?
Thanks guys, i am le tired, goodnight.