ooohhh handy... cant wait for the completition. Cheers gilly!
Righto, Tech article as promised.
this is merely a guide to installing a JDM 16v into an ADM AE86 as performed by myself. this is not the be all to end all way of how its done, what i say is not gospel merely my opinion or way of thinking.
sorry if this seems dumbed down but it is simplified so everyone can understand it (N00BS primarily, no offence intended) i will attempt to detail every step, but please remember it is the ned of the day when i type this so the work was done hours ago and i may miss a few steps! i will also throw up as many pics as i can.
SOME PICS WON'T BE MINE, IF YOU HAVE AN ISSUE WITH ME USING THEM LET ME KNOW AND I'LL GET RID OF THEM.
The evilness
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The goodness (SLYDARS PIC, MY ENGINE THOUGH
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THIS WON'T BE FINISHED FOR A FEW DAYS IN CONSTANT STATE OF EDIT UNTIL THEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOU WILL NEED
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm 24mm sockets, ring spanners
breaker bar
gearbox bung (not essential)
trolley jack
jack stands
drain trays
creeper is handy
light is handy too
engine crane or block and tackle (you can use the winch on your neighbours fourby though)
RAGS!!!!!!!
How to do it
Firstly remove the vehicle battery positive lead. i personally remove the whole battery but thats not essential. while you are on the electrical subect, remove the coil, coil lead and dissconnect the large square plug above the head (pic soon). this plug has the wiring for your temp guage, oil pressure guage, reverse lights and start signal. you don't need to pull the previously mentioned harness off those sensors as by dissconnecting it at the large square plug means it will now be able to be lifted out with the engine (unless you lift the engine and box ut seperately in which cas you will need to disconnect the reverse switch plugs (half way down the box at around middle height, on the left hand side). there is also a earth wire on the left hand side of the engine block next to the engine mount in the first bolt hole of the block stay (pic) i remove the lead from the block not the cahssis as its too easy to forget to put it back on again.
there will be a few other plugs to sensors or switches around the carby. just use your common sense here, if it is going to restrict the engine from being lifted out, un plug it
Mechanically i start by removing any accessories on the 4AC. remove the engine fan, alternator, airfilter housing. all the things that add "bulk " to the engine, remeber the more compact the unit the easier it is to pull out.
remove the bottom radiator hose and drain your coolant. don't kid your self at some stage for no apparant reason more coolant will come from somewhere and leak on the floor, you've been warned!!remove radiator hoses and radiator from engine bay. i like to do all the cooling stuff at the same time so i also remove the heater hoses as well. at the firewall near the head you will see 2 hoses (pic belo) these need to be removed so the engine can be lifted out freely.
pic shows heater hose location and on the left fuel hose location (these get disconnected later)
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at this stage it is best to remove the exhaust as it can get in the way of the gearbox removal which is next. removing the exhaust is quite simple really there are two 14mm nuts holding the exhaust to the manifold, you will need to get to them from under the car and use a breaker bar with an extension and a universal joint as the manifold is in a prick of a spot and can be tight to get too. i recommend using a braker bar as most of the 4AC manifolds i have come across have seized studs and nuts, often the end result is you have to cut the exhaust off as close as you can to the rack. once the nuts are undone remove the rubber exhaust hangers (you can just cut them if you want, you'll get new ones when your exhaust is made to suit the 16v) if you have a stock "over diff" exhaust, its best to undo the lower shock mounts and let the diff drop so you have enough room to get the exhaust out, this can be a bit of mucking around, a bit of lateral thinking will get you through this part of proceedings
at this stage you can either remove the gearbox or leave it on depending on how much space you have to move around your work area. i had little room so we needed to pull the box off.
firstly drain the gearbox of oil. crack the 24mm filer pug on the left hand side of the box, then remove the 17mm drain plug, again on the left hand side. remove the filler plug completely and the box will drain its oil (into a container obviously!!)
while the box is draining, remove the four 12mm nuts and bolts holding the tailshaft to the diff flange. carefully lower the unbolted shaft to the floor (i wasn't careful once and it cost me a tooth) at this stage the box should be empty, reinstall the drain and filler plugs. remove the speedo cable located at the right hand rear of the extension housing (pic soon) i like to lower the back of the box at this stage as there is always more oil in the extension housing that won't drain until you remove the tailshaft. unbolt the centre bearing carrier (pic soon) but DO NOT remove the tailshaft yet. with a jack under the gearbox supporting it. undo the gearbox crossmember bolts, once you have done this slowly lower the box until it won't go any lower. place a drain tray under the extension housing and remove the tailshaft, you should have more oil draining from the housing now. once it has stopped draining jack the box back up and reinstall 2 of the crossmember bolts.
You need to now seperate the box from the engine. there are (@#@#@#) 17mm bellhousing bolts to be removed (pic of bellhousing below to demonstrate location) plus an additional four 14mm bolts to be removed from the engineblock to bellhousing stays (pic) once these are removed you must remove the shifter assembly. remove the shifter cover panel by removing the screw from each corner of the panel, this will reveal the shifter bot and the frame that locates it. unscrew the gearknob then undo the four 10mm bolts holding the bootframe in place. you can now slide the boot up and over the shifter. this will now reveal the top shifter housing, remove the four 10mm bolts from the shifter housing (pic) and pull the shifter out. i like to put a rag in the shifter opening to prevent any dirt and muck getting in there.
bellhousing pic to show where the bolts will be
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now the shifter is out and the bellhousing and stay bolts have been removed we can now (with a jack under the box supporting its weight) undo the 2 bolts still in the gearbox crossmember. the box is now ready to be removed, pull back on it whilst lowering it slightly and with a little luck it should slide right out. if not a litle prying between the block and bellhousing is acceptable, but if it isn't moving you may have missed a bolt so look again. with the box out of the way we can look at getting the almighty 4AC out of the bay.
now seeing as we have already unplugged our wiring and removed our hoses there should only be a few more things to get in the way of holding our engine in the bay other than the mounts themslves. firstly remove the throttle cable, if you removed the airfilter housing earlier the cable will be quite obvious. undo the two adjusting nuts at the carby end and lift the cable out of the way. just above the cable will be the feed and return fuel lines to the carby, simly pull these off and you are nearly done. now undo the two 17mm nuts holding the mounts to the crossmember, they are located at the crossmember on the underside of the mount tabs (pic) now the engine is ready to be lifted out, hook up a chain to the two hooks on the head and lift out slowly and carefully as to make sure nothing is still holding on. once it is clear of the bay lower it to the floor or into a tyre.
if your JDM engine doesn't have bell housing stays or even steel engin mount brackets, these can be removed off the 4AC and be used on the 4AGE, also required is the "sandwich" plate that goes in between the bellhousng and block. to get this off the 4AC you will need to remove the clutch and flywheel assembly. undo the (^&^) (@#@#MM?) bolts from the pressure plate, this should allow you to remove the pressure plate and clutch plate which inturn reveals the flywheel and the bolts required to remove it. undo the (#$#$) $%MM?) bolts from the flywheel, now you can remove it and gain access to the bolts holding te sandwich plate to the 4AC block .remove these bolts and the plate and fit to your JDM 16
I"M GOING TO BED MORE TOMORROW IF YOU SEE THIS (@#@#mm?) IT MEANS I'M CLARIFYING SIZES PLEASE DON'T POST TO TELL ME WHAT THEY ARE
ooohhh handy... cant wait for the completition. Cheers gilly!
great timing. Should be starting this next week if all goes well with suppliers.
Nice one Gilly..... once again stylin n' profilin'....
will add more over the weekend, just busy....
oh yeh can i ad, anyone who is going to do this i highly recommend a can of inox or if you can find it get some lanolyptus FTW the best by far, especially for the taking off the exhaust. also, if you dont want to get zapped when disconnecting the battery undo the negative first. plus the sparks from the positive can ignite the gasses coming out of the battery and blow it up. ive never seen this happen but have heard of it.
good stuff man
Cheers
hey if you dont mind, can you go really specific on the wiring part of the 4age?
id really apreciate it
cheers
Nice write up gilly
I personally, if i ever do another 4age conversion (maybe...) will be taking the gearbox out with the 4ac. Its so much harder to reach the bellhousing-block bolts on the c motor compared to the ge.
Can i also make a suggestion for the 'what you will need' list
12 pack of degreaser!!!!!
yeah easier to pull the box out with the motor, i just didn't have the space or the correct equipment to do so (used a 4x4 winch instead of an engine crane so i had no maneavourability just up and down
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