20v Blacktop into AE86, Wiring

[Tore]

Hi all

I`m sure I`m going to be asking A LOT of questions here.
Suffice it to say I`m from Norway and I took ownership of an abused AE86 a few years ago, and also own another relatively rare (At least in bodystyle) old school Toyota, so suffice it to say I have the same car as most of the members here should approve of

I`m not going to be talking about the whole project in this thread as this is where I need some very important Intel on how to get the hardest (IMHO) job done so I`d like to keep it clean, i.e 20v Wiring on AE86 only.

And I can`t arse my mechanic about every single thing, neither can I ask him to do the swap for me, first of I can`t get a loaded trailer over the mountains and into the south coastal areas of Norway now (It has started to snow) and he`s got enough to do with the engine work and a tanut-load of customers right now, plus I want to do the swap myself, but alas I need some intel

I`m in the preparing stages right now, my friend (and mechanic) is preparing the 20v Blacktop (I.e, waterlines and such) for RWD use.
I`ve also got another engine build in the works but it`s going to take much more money and time than I have right now, so I`m just putting in something I`ve had laying around at my friends place for years to just get the old battle machine up running again for the first time in 2 years, I`ve probably driven it less than 10 miles in the time I`ve owned it (And it has less than 15k miles on it but it`s been through rally and race use so you can probably guess the condition the mechanical bits are in!), and I had some pretty huge plans for it, but now I`m just back to the original idea, to get it working, have fun with it, and take the rest from there, i.e I`ve taken a realistic ground level perspective, for now, so I can get some results (I.e, get the car working).

Right.. Once the engines waterlines is modified I will be picking it up, and I plan to use OEM Blacktop ECU and a distributor relocation kit.
The most critical reason I ask about wiring instead of the mechanical things right now is because I`ve never read, found or heard ANY pointers on how the complete foolproof electrical part of 20v swaps into AE86 goes, like which connectors go where, which one needs main power, which one needs power from which relay, etc.

What I`d love to get a solid tip on first is IF I have to buy EDM OEM 16v Bigport ECU engine bay harness, and where I can find it. Because it`s one of the things that my car..



Doesnt have!!
It`s been housing a typical carburetted TRD 1600cc A rally 190-195hp spec 16v 4A-GE engine since 1988 (The block was blown years before I bought it, the A spec head was then slapped on a AE86 block some years before I bought the car, and the head has NEVER been overhauled) so the ECU engine bay harness is loooong gone..

[Sam-Q]

no engine harness is not needed as you only need 5 wires:




and I can give you a lot of pointers but I have to make an exit shortly

oh also I have this:

[Tore]

Sweet! Well if you are available online in a few weeks/up to a month`s time (I.e, when I have the engine) I`ll bring the subject about engine harness and ECU wiring work up then, as theres not really much concrete questions I can ask right now since I don`t have the engine

I just noticed your website and saw that you are going to (Or already into it?) fabricate and sell AE111-AE101 4A-GE 20v Distributor Relocation kits, which I consider a wiring technical part of the 20v-AE86 swap, but correct me if I`m wrong.

So in that regard might as well kill 2 flies with one stone and ask a few questions about your SQ 20v relocation kit if thats ok:
Is it cheaper than SP-TEC`s? Sorry for dissing SP-TEC like this but 600-650 euros is a bit of a steep price for a kit with a few metal parts and screws and the silly rotor slotted washer that wears out regularily with normal use

Does it include the stopping plate to put on the original location of the distributor? In either case I see that you sell those individually so no problem really

Does it have the inherent washer/spacer wearing out problem that SP-TEC`s kit has?

Can you adjust distributor freely contrary to the SP-TEC kit`s mere 3 positions?

Do you include plug leads with the kit? I speculate highly that I can probably use the original number 3 and number 4 plugwires for plug number 1 and 2 when I relocate the distributor but many others are paying up to 250 dollars or more for a set of customized race spec plug leads when they dont plan to spec up the internals anyways lol

Sorry for being a cheapskate about money when it comes to a race car, but the engine is just something I`ve had laying around for years, for all I know the 20v could have an internal defect so I only feel like spending hard earned cash on the Gr.A 16v engine rebuild.

[Tore]

The engine`ll be done in a few weeks time, meanwhile I`ve had a look around in the barn and found most of the mechanical parts needed, but onto the electric stuff:

Apparently I need a thermostat housing, but the thing is that I don`t have that as my ae86 was carbed, question is, does the 20v need a thermostat and housing?
I might not be able to get a hold of one for a reasonable penny, all I want is for the stock AE111 20v to run at max RPM, I don`t need TRD ding dong this and that, if I`m to use proper money I`d rather spend it on the 16v..
Right now the car sports an electric radiator fan set up with a dashboard switch, can`t I just leave the the ECU thermostat plug out of the whole sheblam? Or are there other thermostat solutions that I can get for a quick penny/free out there?
Or will the 20v not work/go into the dreaded limp mode of boredom (I.e 6800rpm max)?

[Sam-Q]

my appologies Tore, I missed this post till now.

I do plan on making relocation kit's and the next prototype is about 3 weeks away. The estimated cost is $320 each, which as you would know is drasticly cheaper than any other option. It however only moves the cap and now the whole dizzy, which has many adavnatages such as being able to use the original leads, full adjustment as per original, super easy to install and no wearing parts. Hence no flogging out issue or limited adjustment. I also think that the SP-Tec kit is not good enough if for that much money it still can't do it's job. Also my dizzy blanking cover is 2mm thinner than their "thinnest on the market".

I will PM you with information on a cooling kit.

You can ignore the original sensor for the thermofan but not the ecu temperature sendor, this is the M12 one with a washer under it and 2 pins.

You will need to also hook up the speed sensor to get full revs.