Reply With QuoteHow many tunrs lock to lock on the rack?
Also - random question - does anyone know what sort of settings people run on fwds? like celica's, fwd rolla's etc.
about 4-5 deg positive on castor. my front bar is munted and i cant run any more than that due it hitting the front bumper.
How many tunrs lock to lock on the rack?
Also - random question - does anyone know what sort of settings people run on fwds? like celica's, fwd rolla's etc.
Cheers, plohl
2.5 + a bit, i got 3 extra teeth cut in
I run ps arms too
you dont really was heaps of pos castor on fwd as the cv shafts can be only bad angles, i.e wear out faster, you want 0 to just pos to be happy
~KEEP DRIFTING FUN~
With AE92, AE112, ST204 etc.. the main difference (from KE70) is that you have adjustable toe on the rear. With any car, you would want some toe-in on the rear which greatly increases stability in a straight line and grip on a fast corner. With a AE86/KE70 you are stuck with zero toe on the rear and have to live with it, it's switchy, which is no problem for drift. With IRS cars, you can adjust it for toe-in on the rear. Typically 3 degrees total, so 1.5 degrees toe-in each side. You can have 4 degrees total if you want. It's fine and won't wear the rear tyres.
The other advantage of IRS over live axle is you can often have negative camber. Again, the car will tolerate more camber on the rear than the front without the tyres wearing badly (on FWD). And you will get better stability and grip. Look at a modern little Toyota (ZRE152 Corolla, NCP90 Yaris) and you will visually see negative camber on the rear. Sadly these cars are not adjustable, and the angle is set in the beam. With a AE92 the camber is not adjustable either, but it is easy to use "magic camber" bolts or similar to do it.
With a bit or rear camber/toe, you can see how a normal person can drive a AE92 around a corner faster and safer than a AE86. Maybe the AE86 could go as fast (with same tyres and engine) but it would be a hair raising mix of understeer and drift that ends in a crash 10% of the time.
The setting on the front of a FWD will be much the same as any other car. There used to be a old rule of thumb giving FWD cars toe-out on the front, and RWD car toe-in on the front. I would think this is due to soggy bushes. (Think AE82 vs RT104 or something). With a modern car which has more solid joints and bushes, I think you just run very close to zero toe on the front.
^ thanks for the detailed reply
The car is my st162 celica - i was hoping to get something rwd (86 or mx5) but havent the funds atm, so will be rocking the fwd for a bit longer haha. Will have a look and see what i can do with it - i have some camber adjustment on the front hubs, but have not had a look to see how much i can get. All the bushey have been replaced with nylon ones, so will see what i can do with the toe. Have been tossing up whether to get some camber/caster strut tops for it that are going cheap on one of the celica forums, they are similar to the noltec ones.
Might have a play this weekend and see what i can come up with.
Cheers, plohl
only thing worth ready in this whole thread...=p
good post thats for sure
dose
All of theses alignment specs are semi useless if people don't say what size tyres there running
The first thing you need to do is find a good tyre shop, with guys who know what they are doing on a wheel alignment machine. If your car has coilovers, the shop should weigh the car on corner scales, with the driver in it. Whats the point of aligning a car with no driver. It doesnt get driven without a driver in the front seat. I know this coz my old work van would toe out 4.5 degrees when i got in! Once the weights are set correctly, then you can start taking initial measurements and adjusting. Everything is a variable, and what works on one car might chew tyres and handle like crap on another. Again, a good old school mechanic on the wheel alignment machine should be able to tell you all this anyway.
If you see a shop with race/performance cars hanging around, it is probably a better option than a shop with lowered commodores and burnout marks out the front!
^^^^^Very good points, still want to get my car corner weighted, pity its around $200
RT142 Estate.
AJPS.
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