Why do you want to use S13 crossmember so badly? Is it only for the power steering? S13 Crossmember involves tunnel mods. You get a way better result using ae86 crossmember and custom mounts.
I'd go bigger diff than a T series.
Gents, TL;DR at bottom of page.
Bought a whole S13 Silvia a few days ago, that I am planning on swapping across to my KE70, and selling the shell.
Now, I've been reading up for the past 5 hours now on different peoples build threads, other tech questions, etc etc, but am still getting mixed answers.
I'd like to know the following.
1. Using a S13 Crossmember in a KE70, I'm under the impression that the boltholes need to be elongated by around 10mm or so?
2. Using the S13 Steering rack, is there a place or other model of car, that makes uni joints to suit the KE steering column, to S13 Rack? Don't particularity want to cut and shut.
3. Obviously, by using the S13 crossmember, there is going to be an overall increase in track. Silvia = 1466mm wheel to wheel, and KE70 is 1320mm, which leaves an overall track increase of around 146mm. Does anyone know what kind of LCAs, other then stock S13 ones, that are shorter, and can be used? I've heard of Nissan Bluebird ones being used (Unsure of model). I'm currently running XT130 LCAs, and was thinking that I could chuck the standard sprinter ones back in, and redrill the S13 crossmember to mount the LCAs further in, as such, reducing the track.
4. Taking point 3 into consideration, I would like to continue running the AE86 struts (As I've just spent a fortune getting brand new Koni adjustables in) if I can. I've heard doing this can cause suspension geometry issues, however, I've not actually seen hard number based evidence of this. Is anyone running a S13 Crossmember, with AE86 struts and can comment on if bump steer and castor adjustment is affected?
5. If I was to bin the AE86 struts, and run the whole S13 suspension setup, other then elongating the strut tower bolt holes to suit the S13 bolt pattern, is there much else that needs doing? From what I can tell, its a fairly straight forward bolt in affair.
6. If i was to run a T series rear end, and the CA gearbox (I'm aware the shifter position sits about 75mm back from where the shifter would normally sit) is there a tailshaft option to suit? I'm thinking its going to have to be a custom job, but maybe someone knows of, or has, a tailshaft that will suit.
That should be all for now. I will have some more questions a bit later (that I have written down at home) and will post them up.
I understand that some of these questions may have been answered in other threads, but what I want are answers from people who have DONE this, or are currently DOING this conversion, that know 100%. I know your mates uncles brothers father in laws dog may have done it and used xx part, but I want to know the correct way to do it.
Cheers,
Shazza
Why do you want to use S13 crossmember so badly? Is it only for the power steering? S13 Crossmember involves tunnel mods. You get a way better result using ae86 crossmember and custom mounts.
I'd go bigger diff than a T series.
1. Yes you are correct
2. Use the uni joint from an r34
3. R31 should give less track
4. Not sure how that will work as the s13 strut connects to the top of the knuckle while the ae86 one connects to the hub
5. No nothing else is needed
6. Youwill have to get a tailshaft from the diff you are using and a tailshaft from the gearbox toure using take them and the car to a tailshaft joint and they will cut them and join them to fit
Alot easier just going with a standard front end, use the standard 4k cross member cut old mounts off get new mounts welded on, any fabricator should be able to do this, may cost around $250-$300 and then everything else will bolt in perctly fine, you may want to mos the firewall like i did on mine so you can reach the gearbox bolts otherwise have fun when you blow the clutch and have to take the whole motor out to replace the clutch.
Can get bolt in kits using ae71 crossmember for ca and sr.
"Not all commodore drivers are wankers, but all wankers drive commodores"
The reasoning behind using it, is simply, I have it. I have a whole S13 that I would prefer to use as much of as possible. Can you explain to me what tunnel mods are required? Is it simply getting a bit happy with a hammer, or a cut and weld thing? Does it 100% have to be done? You don't think a T series will suffice? I thought of going an R31 diff. I've heard that these can be a bolt in affair and doesnt require shortening of axles and whatnot? Can you confirm?
Thanks for the information mate. Much appreciated.
Hi mate,
I've been speaking with Anthony at Kaizen Garage about his mount kit, and whilst it does seem the logical way to go, my only thoughts were if I can utilize the existing parts I have, then the cost will be kept lower. From the looks of it though, if I'm going to run the S13 crossmember, then it might end up costing more, and will be a pain in the ass to run the AE86 struts.
Cheers fellas, again, much appreciated.
Shazza
Running the ke70/86 front end will save you alot of time and headfuck!
I run a 31 diff in mine which they are not a direct bolt in, i have the ke70 sleeves cut off the ke70 diff and the 31 sleeves cut off and welded the ke70 sleeves onto the borgy centre, pretty big job as it needs to be pretty accurate! The 31 diff is also about 60mm longer than a t-series
just use a s13 steering rack as all the p/s steering lines can be used from the ca/sr
buy s13 coilovers, cant use other suspension as it is too wide for strut tower,
r31 castor are also required and r31 lcas will reduce the track, which is what i am currently running, but i will be going to s13/4 as my steering is going over centre and im hoping longer lcas will solve the problem
also i doubt the struts u have will fit, plus if u do use a full s13 front end u can run sr20 brakes which will pull up a ur car far better then will ever be requiered
custom tailshaft is also required, costs around about 300-600 hard earned dollars
this is all from my expirience, others may have done it another way
any more questions pm me if u want, happy to answer them
Really? Good god, the lengths people have gone to, and its been there all along.
Oh and, use the S13 crossmember, use R31 LCA's, use S12 rack or manualised S13 or standard S13 if you really think you need power steer, use S13 coilovers with an AE86 cambertop if you dont want to elongate holes, use a RB20/30 box with CA bellhousing if you want standard(ish) shifter position, tap your tunnel with a hammer if you want (doesnt need much despite what people say) and get a stronger diff. You will need tailshaft to be custom made.
Then when everyone tell's you that you have done it wrong, sock them in the face and do a brakie on their front lawn.
Last edited by matt99; 18th June 2012 at 11:12 PM.
Yeah should fit perfectly
Awesome, thanks for all the information guys.
Might just end up going the Kaizen Garage mount kit for the crossmember that I already have, as it seems its going to be a costly exercise doing the S13 crossmember, considering I've already got an awesome suspension and brake setup.
Cheers fellas,
Shazza