Reply With Quote10k with mostly second hand crap and a lot of broken stuff.
20k easily with mostly new and high quality parts.
Can be done for 10k more or less, but it's not guaranteed (especially on second hand parts).
30kw club
10k with mostly second hand crap and a lot of broken stuff.
20k easily with mostly new and high quality parts.
BT20v engine - $1700
T50 box - $400
Clutch - $250
Machine fly wheel - $50
ECU - (adaptronic) - $1300ish
wire in - $400?
Tune - $800?
headers - $700 (2nd hand)
exhaust - $700... DIY $300
Tail shaft - $150 (86 or 71)
JDM T series - $1200 - $1600
JDM fuel tank - $350
Misc - $300
Coilovers - bottom of the line $1200 - $1300
PS knuckle - $250
castor rods - $250
Lock spacer - $50
RCA - $130ish
nolthane bushes (whole car) - $200 up to $450
Oils - $200 ( engine, box, diff, break, clutch)
Total ^ - $11280
I havent factored in shipping cost for items..
I havent factored in fixing things like, wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, rack ends etc.
costs are for new parts, good quality ( except for coilovers)
So that will give you a fair idea on what your looking at...
The trick is.... write a list... be patient with parts... dont just buy it because its there... there are some good buys to be had if you have a eagle eye and your johnny on the spot with the cash.... remember, no cash no sale... no one will wait for you to get your act together... if a good buy comes up and its legit... don't hesitate.
Do you research!!! this is a must, otherwise you will listen to what other people say, and your project will end up blowing the bank and it wont be what YOU wanted it to be.
Your neighbour might be able to afford a 300 + KW beams motor with all the shit... yeah it would be great and you probably have sticky dreams about it , but putting a "3sge inside" sticker on your windscreen, when in fact its a 4K aint making your car perform any better,now your $2.50 short for your chinese coilovers.... if you catch my drift...
Last edited by sundee; 8th October 2012 at 06:47 PM.
Just buy a cheap Keto or AE71
- Get the suspension, brakes, engine and gearbox set up you want, Be patient, the parts will show up for the right price if you keep an eye out.
Learn to drive it the way you want without fear of destroying it, then when you got it down move on to 86. Every thing transfers over.
.......Or get stuck on Keto's and 71's like me.
weather its a keto or an 86... after the original purchase of the shell the mods are exactly the same in parts and cost.
one of the most important mod is you diff... DO NOT lock it! DO NOT run it open! the odds of putting into a gutter or a wall are increased 10 fold.
lockers are vicious, insane under steer to spastic oversteer, you will loop it 9 times out of 10.
all argue if you like, but unless your running the 1/4 mile its a useless dangerous piece of garbage!
daily locker for ages, i had no issues and i did alot of k's, it stepped when i knew it would it acted like i wanted
i always had better tyres on the front then the rears
IMO there is just no point, nothing is working together, you chew out front tyres, the dynamics of the car are so unnatural, why waste your time with something thats working against you the whole time.
a comparison of the wheel work needed when driving a locker to a LSD is just crazy...
Your front tyres will get to their operating limit alot faster,
The car becomes very twitch.. adding that to the characteristics of a short wheel base, and in most of them a narrow track..
as you can see i get pretty ancy when it comes to this topic. no offence intended, i can only comment because ive owned and driven RWD cars with open diffs, VLSD, Lockers and LSD's....
it make a world of difference.
It will cost atleast twice as much to build one than buy one already done.
stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?
^ this to!
i love a twitchy car, but i have to agree, effort is bullshit, car was so easy to drive once you snapped an axle(parking and shit), id still go a locker over Open,
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