Hobby wing is probably the more realizable out of the sets you listed and the cs guys over drive the rear or under drive the front or a mix of both
Iv been running hobbywing for years now and never had a esc or motor die or break or play up apart from a fan for the esc on 3s on a buggy I had a while back
Rwd wise have a look at the mst fxx s or if you like burning money go for the fxx VIP
And they come with a piazo type gyro
I personally run one that is adjustible by the radio(in my case the 3rd channel on my flysky gt3c)
It's actually a tail rotor gyro and works a treat stay away for the really cheap ones they seem to work well for a little while then break due to the vibration and movements in a car
The key thing to remember with rwd is getting your droop settings right and finding a balance of wheel speed and grip on the given surface
Too much wheel speed and not enough grip and you burn through softer compounds way too quick
If you can steer really well you can definatly get a realistic style going on
Rwd iv touched based with a few times and am getting more successful with each attemp iv pulled the yokomo apart now my next rwd attempt will be a more dedicated rwd chassis
Like the above mentioned mst fxx
The fxx-s is the very basic kit and is all plastic is shaft driven
It works really well after you get your weights in the right spots and the right tyres
The fxx-a is also about 180ish delivered on eBay too
Hobbywing it is.
Yeah, I'm gonna play around with grip levels on the rear and try to get it to a point where it's grippy but not too snappy or too slippery that it spins all the time. Put more mechanical grip to the rear by playing with springs. But I should buy some oil filled shocks first, lol. Turns out one of my uprights is broken too so gotta figure out a way to fix that as well. Then if I can't get it work, I'll buy a gyro.
Chuck your batter on your rear shock tower and go for a mst soft with a few weights on you lower arms to get it nearly there haha
Also this turned up just now yay
2 of the shells I have been working on recently
Jzx100 is by overdose and the onevia is by pandora Rc
So this is how it's working a treat need to round my front tires a bit more it would seem it had a bit of under steer
But it's working
That makes no sense to me dude. All that weight in the rear makes it seem like will whip out hard like a porsche or MR2, no? Or is that negated by not having any grip so it's not like you're fighting grip of a rubber tire. I was using weight transfer(feint) to get my car sideways. I ended up putting two batteries on it to weigh it down and slow down it's rotation.
Not that I need one but I had a quick look at radios and it looks like JR don't sell a car radio in the international market anymore?!
You dudes have telemetry these days? What do you use it for?
The mt4s by sanwa and the futaba 4pls are telemetry radios
I have the 4pls and think it's great
Futaba doesn't come with the sensors tho
What do you plan on monitoring?
I plan on having a monitor for voltage and motor temp really and that's about all I need rpm and everything else is fairly useless for drifting to me
And yeah the weight on the rear gives you your speed and helps with keeping it moving while on throttle it doesn't wip around crazy quick for me plenty of people use heaps of rear weight to make the rwd chassis work better
I don't plan on monitoring anything. I think it's crazy, and cool, that RC stuff is that advanced these days. Synth'ed radios came out when I was still into RC and that was amazing back then. Brushless made it's mainstream debut (and I bought novak's first brushless packages) and Lipo was starting to make a name for itself thanks mainly to a guy called Craps (IIRC) who was running them on his converted truggy.
I shall try more rear weight next time then. Seems counter intuitive to me but these things are exactly scaled down cars either.
Yeah I have a front motor chassis and have moved my battery from middle rear to r
As rearward as possable now
Plus I have about 30 grams of weights mounted up high but will work out a better way to position the weights as the more that weight I change to I sprung weight the better I reckon
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