Max lock for Ke70

[3rzke70]

so I'm attempting to get as much steering lock possible in the ksev.

Started with stock setup and have improved all aspects of the car (power,suspension , brakes) over the last 4 years to end up with a reasonable amount of steering lock, ( cut and re welded stock knuckles. And I've machined up a lock spacer based on a ajps spacer,) cut and re welded LCA's 25mm longer to get clearance and gusseted the bottom of them for reassurance.


1.my plans are to move the steering rack forward(to assist with the prevention of binding)
2.shorten knuckles so that from point of pivot the are about 4 to 5 mm longer than half the rack travel.
3. Knotch my LCA's so that my tierod/knuckles will sink into them because atm they stop just as they hit, plus 5 deg castor does not help.

My questions are firstly , has anyone achieved near 83-85 degrees steering? Forklift steez Is it possible?
and can I move my struts tops back instead of winding on more castor so that my LCA's remain fairly adjacent to my car .
Can my knuckles be dead flat instead of having the angle where the tierod tapered hole is? As I am considering making my own..

ill start with that but have a few more queries.
Hope this is in the right section. Cheers

[johl]

you will probably need to look at moving the castor rod so the wheel wont hit it when your at full lock.
might be easier to go a custom tube setup, similar to a cusco formula link or grp4 design.

it is pretty common to press the knuckles flat to get rid of the ackerman angle. i wouldnt encourage it but it does happen.

are you sticking with ke70 struts, steering arms and brakes? i would recommend buying a complete ae86 setup because of the lack of brake and shock options for standard ke gear.

if you haven't already, you will have to trim the front edge of your quarter panel so the wheel doesnt grab it with the extra castor. just trim it alot so oyu can run as much castor as you desire then you wont have to worry about moving the strut top rearwards.


so in short-
1- buy ae86 brakes and hubs (imo not worth spending extra for jdm)
2- buy or manufacture your own adjustable lower control arm that is notched and move the castor rod mount
3- buy ae86 power steering arms
4- trim quarter panel for more castor
5- put it on full lock and drive your fork lift where ever you want

[Konakid]

Why?

[3rzke70]

Thanks johl,
1. I have bigger brakes and struts yes.
2. LCA's will be notched great.
3. Steering arms will be shortnd standard ones with zero Ackerman. But where the tierod out ball joints tapered bolt goes in is slopped back and away. This I wish to have flat are wondering if it will work.
4. Yes quarter panel has had much taken out of it but wondering if I can just space my struts top hat back to obtain castor to prevent my LCA's from facing forward which will minimise my lock potential.
so castor arm will be changed to a dogleg looking setup.
5. Go drift haha

[Sam-Q]

moving the steering rack will induce bump steer

[marvis]

You shouldn't need to move the rack.

[AJPS]

Max lock is like|

"biggest offset"

"most kilowatts"

"biggest brakes"

it is just a number if it is not being used

[Matt]

an ajps lock spacer + ae86 power steering arms are enough for most people.

[Konakid]

As above

[sam2306]

you probably cant even drive mate.

i had a jdm ae86 rack, powersteering knuckles and a lock spacer and that was enough lock to come back from 90 degrees, you wont be needing all those modifications you have listed.