Introduce Yourself!

[whatisit]

Name:
Sean

Location:
Pennsylvania, delaware county

Age:
26

Occupation:
Pepsi sales representative

How did I find this forum:
I recenyly bought a 85 corolla gts, was looking for info and found this.

[Chi-town]

Chuck in Socal, too old, Performance parts peddler.

Google search is the key

[Nazeradi]

Hello just introducing myself.


Occupation : truck driver (big rigs just starting out tho)


Likes: Beer, Hennesy, Music, Anime, Movies, AE86's, Money (just to name a few things)


Dislikes: Bitch-assness.




will post my needs in the other forum topics.




cya!!

[Matt]

Welcome guys!

[strmrdr23]

hello from seattle, washington. i've had my 86 for several years now but we had run out of money part way through engine swap (why oh why did i buy a house?!). anyways, after 3 years of parking her at my grandma's house. we're almost back up and running!!! I'll post pics and vid once that's happened.

she's a 1986 GT-S Coupe. mods inc'l the following:

Body:
JDM kouki front and rear bumpers
zenki lip
rear bumper fins
fibre glass copy of eom side skirts (not mounted)
seibon cf hood (super faded )
aftermarket sunroof (old aftermarket sunroof was leaking like a mofo so it had to be replaced)
east bear power mirrors (painted with boeing airplane paint - not installed. it's designed for rhd and mirrors aren't angled for lhd. need to figure how to convert)

Suspension:
T3 8kg fr, 6kg rr coilovers, rca, and panhard
battle version 4 links
prothane bushings
trd front sway bar
cusco front strut tower bar
silk road rear strut tower bar
ultra 3point fender braces

Interior:
recaro srd driver seat
full swap from original blue to black
black dash mat (got to protect the that dash from the sun!!)
NOB (taniguchi) edition nardi steering wheel with quick release
sapporo beer samurai sword tap handle as shift knob (not installed)
Cs short shifter (leans right because it's jdm LOL!)
brass shifter bushing
sk sanyo jdm (km/h) white face gauge cluster (not installed)

Engine and Drivetrain:
hi-comp "redtop" swap
trd spark plug wires
toda cam gears and valve springs
hks 272/264 cams
nst crank and alternator pulleys
koyo radiator and e-fan conversion (derale e-fan kit)
kbd 4-2-1 exhaust header
link g4 ecu (not installed but very soon to be)
silk road race clutch and super light fly wheel
steel one piece drive shaft
injen intake
GReddy/Trust DD exhaust

Wheels:
15x8.5 -10 WEDSports MA86

that's it, i think. she's been through several iterations thus far but this is how she currently sits as far as i can recall. lol. there's a worklog on hachiroku.net (same sn - strmrdr23) if you're interested. i prolly won't check here as often but i will pop in periodically when i wanna see how y'all do it half a world away!

[SgtRauksauff]

Long-time lurker, first-time poster. hah.
Name: Jorden
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA, Terra, Sol, Milky Way.
Occupation: Systems Administrator (aka computer geek)
How did I find the forum: I cannot remember, I've been reading bits on it for years.

I picked up an '85 GT-S hatch many moons ago, like back in 2005 or 2006. I kept it hidden for a year while I fixed a few things on it, then suprised all my friends at an Autocross by showing up in an AE86. This was right when Initial D was making its rounds again, and I was almost embarrassed, but I got over it because the car is just that good. Shortly thereafter, at BlackHawk Farms Raceway, I heard some knocking, and found that the previous owner had used RTV to help seal the head gasket. some of that RTV found its way to blocking the only oil port to the head, and I ended up galling the camshaft bearing surfaces.

So, I set out to build a fresh engine. I got a 7-rib bigport, a TRD 0.8mm head gasket (shoulda gone 0.6mm), some of the later 10.3:1 first-oversize pistons from a geo, some ARP head studs, and Supertech valves. did some cleanup on the head, with the oil drain and the ports. No real shaping/blending, just cleaning the flash and smoothing the walls; 80-grit on the intake, up to 320 on the exhaust. Spent a lot of time to get the valve shim clearances exactly the same for all intakes, and for all exhausts. made my own over-axle exhaust, put everything back together. At the same time, I got a Weir Performance Engineering 4.778:1 ring and pinion, and a Kaaz 2-way LSD. Did a break-in, and hit a dynojet dyno. 108hp, 98lb-ft. not too shabby!!

The car was pretty good, but I did want a little more out of it, and talked to Bob from Drift Office, who talked me out of jumping into a standalone, and recommended some old-school tuning, for what I wanted. A 4-1 header (needed a little work to not rub the steering rack,) SARD FPR, and a set of TODA cams (256/264). I also got new valvesprings to go with the new cam, made sure all the clearances were still the same, and did 12 runs on a Dyno Dynamics eddy-current dyno. To get the best result, I ended up just adding 4psi of fuel pressure, and 4 degrees of timing advance. The cams had the best performance dialed in exactly to zero degrees, even though I have fancy cam pulleys. The end result was 133.0hp, and 108lb-ft. So I ran the car just like that for awhile. So I proceeded to do local autocross events, autocross and time attack and lapping days at USAIR in Shawano, Wiconsin, Brainerd Int'l Raceway in Minnesota, and Blackhawk Farms in Illinois, but never got a chance to get to Gingerman, Grattan, or Road America in this car. After about two years with nothing but oil changes, there was a dyno day at Kelly-Moss motorsports on their Mustang dyno, so I strapped it on, and lost a little power off of the fresh build: 122whp, 105lb-ft. Still good, with the wringer that I put this engine through. Plus my understanding is that Dynojet reads a little high, and Mustangs sometimes read low.

Living in Wisconsin, part of the Rust Belt, is a dangerous thing for metal cars. I didn't drive my Corolla on the salted roads during winter, but the damage had been done by previous owners, so the body is far from perfect, even nearing structural rot in a couple places. Then the dreaded happened. One spring, I forgot to check the steering knuckle bolts for tightness on the first jaunt out. one bolt fell out, which made the tire decide to turn opposite of the way the steering wheel was moving. the end result, a detached wheel/hub/rotor/caliper/strut, and a tweaked subframe, passenger door that doesn't close right, and a bad day.

fast forward a couple years.. just this past October, I flew out to Portland, OR, bought a rust-free diesel truck, rented a tow dolly, then put a rust-free '84 SR5 hatch shell on the dolly, and drove home to Wisconsin. I an neither confirm nor deny whether there was an unfinished BEAMS swap under the hood of said SR5. The point of a clean shell was to put my built 4AGE into it, so I could once again drive an amazing car.

Then just two weekends ago, someone thought they had some engine problems, so were selling their '86 SR5 coupe for a low price. I had a perfectly good 4AC from the Portland shell, so I was going to just swap it in. Except that all I had to do was bolt on a carburetor, change some fuel hoses, charge the battery, and change the oil. starts and runs fine, although at 1°F, it is a little rough to keep running until it warms up.

Just waiting on some front spring seats, then I'll be able to find out how this coupe actually drives.

So anyways.... there's my intro, and a good way to get rid of that nagging message at the top.

--sarge

[ChrisB33]

NAME:
Chris

Location:
Houston,tx ,usa

AGE
35

Occupation
Photographer

How'd you find this forum
Was looking for info on ae71. Will be buying one in the next week or so. Old Nissan guy, so time for a new project.

[AdamD]

Hi, My name is Adam and I am from Melbourne and by profession a banker and love traveling!

[Verocyn69]

Hey new to the forum so i figured id get in on the introductions as well,

NAME:
Brian

LOCATION:
Denver, CO

AGE:
27

OCCUPATION:
Mechanic